一组古代丝织品上蓝色植物染料的分析鉴定

本研究以显微共焦拉曼光谱技术(Micro-Raman)、薄层色谱(TLC)、紫外-可见吸收光谱(UV-Vis)及高效液相色谱(HPLC)为主要分析手段,对一组古代丝织品(包括清代传世品扇套、元代鸽子洞出土蓝棉袄和百纳枕顶)上蓝色染料进行分析鉴定。结果表明,该组样品中蓝色均为靛蓝染色,色素成分有靛蓝素和靛玉红,由于制靛工艺或老化程度不同,在各样品中两成分相对比例均不相同。分别对靛蓝试剂进行UVA、50℃高温、85%高湿老化实验,对老化前后样品进行了检测。分析发现,光照2个月后,靛玉红相对含量降低较明显。高温、高湿老化6个月后靛蓝素和靛玉红含量的显著降低。特别是在高温环境下靛蓝素相对含量降低幅度相当大,可见较之靛玉红,靛蓝素更不耐高温老化。该研究采用无损与微损技术结合的方法有效解决了蓝色植物染料的鉴定,同时通过老化试验初步明确了靛蓝染料的降解原因,对于染色工艺研究以及色彩保存工作具有重要意义。     

袁世凯蓝呢礼服上蓝色染料的分析研究

文中采用拉曼光谱分析法和薄层色谱法,对河南博物院院藏衰世凯蓝呢礼服上蓝色染料的化学成分进行了分析.研究结果显示,衰世凯蓝呢礼服上蓝色染料的化学成分为合成靛蓝,说明了合成靛蓝染色布料在当时中国已经开始出现,这在科技史和考古学上具有重要意义.     

山普拉墓群出土毛织品上蓝色染料的分析研究

本文采用薄层色谱法、红外光谱法、高效液相色谱法、质谱及快原子轰击质谱法的分析测试手段,通过综合比照认定毛织品上的蓝色染料的主要成分应是靛蓝素,染色过程中可能采用了复染与套染工艺     

古代织品染料的分析

从染草中提取出各种植物染料,然后进行古样品的模拟染色。以薄层色谱法为主要测试手段,并结合化学分析以及高效液相色谱。紫外光谱等近代方法对染料进行分析与鉴定,建立起一套行之有效的天然植物染料分析和鉴定的方法,并成功地用于古代样品的分析,揭示了三千年前古样品染料色素的成分。     

模拟古代丝织品上天然染料剥色研究

剥色是古代纺织品染料分析的第一步。如何选择合适的剥色方法和试剂是做好染料分析研究的基础。为此,本研究在已有研究的基础上,以模拟古代染色样品及其老化样品为对象,对染料剥色方法和试剂进行了实验研究。本研究采用古代常用的九种植物染料苏木、茜草、紫草、栀子、槐花、姜黄、黄柏、五倍子/栗壳靛蓝对现代丝绸用古代方法模拟染色。选取DMF、乙酸、甲醇、乙醇、丙酮、乙酸乙酯、石油醚、2%碳酸氢钠（pH=10）、盐酸/甲醇/水(2:1:1) （括号中为体积比,下同）、3M盐酸/甲醇 (1:1) 和10%硫酸/乙酸乙酯（1:1）等溶剂对各种染色丝绸进行剥色实验。此外,对染色后的丝绸进行老化,并将其与未老化的样品做剥色对比研究。结果表明,盐酸/甲醇/水、DMF、乙酸的剥色效果好,但盐酸/甲醇/水体系丝纤维水解严重。苏木、茜草、紫草、栀子、姜黄、黄柏染色丝绸用甲醇/水、10%硫酸/乙酸乙酯、2%碳酸氢钠剥色均有一定效果,姜黄和黄柏染色丝绸也可以用乙醇和水剥色。媒染染色丝绸用EDTA/DMF的无损方法剥色效果好。五倍子和栗壳丝绸用水或70%乙醇剥色效果好,靛蓝丝绸用吡啶、吡啶/水、DMF、乙酸剥色效果好。热老化丝绸上色素发生了一定程度的氧化和交联作用,剥色效果不如未老化的纤维。如果剥色试剂不符合后续分析的要求可以用蒸干重新溶解或者萃取的方法。     

克孜尔石窟出土蓝色颜料研究

克孜尔石窟是蜚声中外的佛教艺术宝库,其丰富的历史文化遗存,是研究丝绸之路文化交流与融合的重要实物资料。为了解克孜尔石窟第189窟前发现的蓝色颜料,采用X射线衍射(XRD)对其成分进行分析,采用拉曼、扫描电镜能谱仪(SEM-EDS)将其与第189窟壁画蓝色样品的元素组成及物相进行对比,采用酶联免疫吸附测定(ELISA)、透射傅立叶红外光谱(FTIR)对其可能含有的胶结材料进行分析。结果表明,该出土蓝色颜料样品为青金石,胶结材料为植物胶。研究表明,通过多种分析手段联合使用,可以更全面、客观地了解分析对象的各种信息,为今后克孜尔石窟壁画制作材料及制作工艺的分析提供经验和借鉴。     

新疆阿斯塔那唐墓出土彩塑的制作工艺和颜料分析

新疆阿斯塔那古墓群出土了大量的彩塑,为了解其制作工艺与彩绘颜料成分,采用显微激光拉曼光谱,结合剖面观察和能量色散X射线荧光光谱等科技手段,对出土于唐墓的6个样品进行了分析鉴定.结果表明,泥胎表面先用硬石膏做打底层,再施以彩绘,且彩绘颜料厚薄有异.所使用的红、黄、黑、白和绿色颜料有铅丹、密陀僧、朱砂和土红、雌黄、炭黑、硬石膏及氯铜矿等无机颜料,而粉色彩绘是由铅丹(或铅丹和密陀僧的混合物)与硬石膏调和而成,且密陀僧作为彩绘颜料在新疆是较早的发现.其最为重要的发现是蓝色彩绘为植物性染料——靛蓝.这一研究结果,为进一步的彩塑修复与保护方案的制订提供了有价值参考.     

甘肃省天水伏羲庙壁画颜料显微分析

为了解甘肃省天水伏羲庙壁画的制作工艺和颜料成分,采用偏光显微镜、显微拉曼光谱和扫描电子显微镜-能潜分析对6个样品进行了分析。结果表明,所使用的颜料为矿物质颜料,多为绿,白、红、蓝色等。其绿色颜料为人造碱式氯化铜,白色颜料碳酸钙,红色为朱砂和铅丹,蓝色颜料为青金石。     

连云港尹湾汉墓出土缯绣的染料研究

潮湿埋藏环境出土的丝织品文物极为珍贵,但由于染料信息的大量流失,使得其原本色彩难以辨认。采用高效液相色谱-质谱联用法以及紫外-可见分光光度法对连云港尹湾汉墓出土的缯绣衾被残片所使用的染料做了分析,在其萃取液中检测到了苏木的染料成分。结合科技鉴定结果以及文献记载分析,确定苏木为织物原始的上染染料。这项研究成果表明西汉时期除了茜草和蓝草以外,苏木也被用于丝织品的染色。这将植物染料中苏木的使用提前至西汉乃至西汉以前,极大地完善和丰富了纺织考古的资料和信息。同时,也为潮湿环境出土织物的染料研究提供了借鉴。     

一件15世纪藏文写本插图绘制颜料的原位无损分析检测

采用原位无损的分析检测手段对一件15世纪藏文写本《松赞干布遗训》插图部分进行检测,通过联合使用三维视频显微镜、X射线荧光光谱仪(XRF)、激光共聚焦拉曼光谱仪(Raman)三种仪器,在不对文物进行破坏取样的前提下得到藏文古籍手绘插图所用颜料的化学结构、颜色调制方法等信息。检测结果表明:手绘插图主色颜料红色为朱砂,黄色为雌黄,蓝色为靛蓝,黑色炭黑,白色推测为高岭土;副色颜料绿色由蓝色靛蓝和黄色雌黄调和而成,橘色由红色朱砂和黄色雌黄调和而成,粉色由白色高岭土和红色朱砂调和而成。检测结果为研究西藏传统颜料化学成分、使用方法、变色脱落等病害产生的原因等提供了重要的依据。     

Towards the identification of dyestuffs in Early Iron Age Scandinavian peat bog textiles

A large systematic dye investigation of prehistoric Danish and Norwegian bog textiles was carried out using high performance liquid chromatography with photo diode array detection. After the selection of the most suitable protocol for dye extraction and HPLC analysis for this specific group of archaeological samples, the second part included the characterisation of the dyes detected in the whole series of the Early Iron Age textiles and the interpretation of the dyeing technology. Natural organic dyes were found from the three main categories of natural dyes, hence throwing new light on the use of biological dye sources in Early Iron Age Scandinavia. The results clearly indicate that most Scandinavian peat bog textiles originally were dyed and that already during the 1st millennium BC, the populations in Scandinavia were familiar with the dyeing technology.     

Photographic methods to detect colourants in archaeological textiles

Protocols for photography of archaeological textiles to detect components of differing chemistry that are indicative of colourants were developed. Parameters of light source, camera distance, filter type, film type, film speed, and aperture size were evaluated for visible, UV-reflectance, UV-fluorescence, and infrared photography. Using these techniques facilitates selective sampling for further analysis that maximizes critical data acquisition while minimizing destruction of the artefact. Hence, forensic photography of archaeological perishable materials should be regarded as a precursor to destructive analytical methods.     

新疆山普拉墓地出土金线结构形貌与材质特征研究

山普拉墓地出土的珍贵纺织品与新疆其他古墓葬群出土的纺织品一样,是研究世界古代纺织史、丝绸之路物质文化交流的重要标本,承载着人类社会发展极其重要的历史、文化、科技价值。为研究古代纺织品的用金技术,以新疆和田洛浦县山普拉墓地出土金线为研究对象,借助光学显微镜和扫描电镜对金线的形貌进行显微观察,以揭示金线及其芯线的结构特征,获取了金线相关几何尺寸等信息。同时结合能谱仪分析,对金线的成分进行检测,获得了金线合金中各元素的比例。本研究结果可为中国古代纺织品的用金技术研究提供科学依据,并且期冀通过今后逐步积累的大量金线分析数据能够揭示出中国较早时期纺织品用金技术的起源及其发展脉络。     

Stable Isotope Sourcing of Wool from Textiles at Pacatnamú

Stable carbon and nitrogen isotopic compositions were determined for wool textiles from the Lambayeque (c. ad 1100–1320) occupation at Pacatnamú in the Jequetepeque Valley, northern Peru. The isotopic data demonstrate that the wool was not obtained via long‐distance exchange with the highlands and was most probably derived from locally raised camelids. In light of other lines of evidence (diversity of dyes used to produce the same colours in textiles and the low quality of the weaving), textiles at Pacatnamú appear not to have been as effective a marker of political power and prestige for local elites as they were elsewhere in the Andean region.     

瓷器传统修复材料变色成因分析

瓷器文物修复需要经过多道工序方可完成,修复后的瓷器经过1～3年不等的时间均会出现修复部位不同程度的变色。为不影响瓷器文物的展陈效果,往往进行再次修复,多次修复对瓷器文物带来一定的损伤。为此,本研究以传统瓷器修复材料为研究对象,开展瓷器修复材料变色成因分析研究,以期为提高瓷器修复材料耐久性的研究提供一定的研究思路。本研究通过模拟瓷器修复工艺处理市售白色瓷板,然后进行干热、湿热和氙灯老化,利用色差仪和光泽度仪表征了老化前后各模拟样品的色差和光泽度。结果表明:作色处理色差变化最大,而且引起变色的环境因素主要是光和温度,故瓷器在修复后需避光和低温保存。     

Identification of ancient textiles from Yingpan,Xinjiang, by multiple analytical techniques

Various extraordinary textiles were excavated from a graveyard at Yingpan, Xinjiang, on the middle route of the ancient Silk Road. Applications of western motifs and designs to traditional Chinese textiles led to the emergence of compound woven textiles with central Asian characters. For a better understanding of the cultural exchanges and textile trade between the West and the East in ancient times, identifications of archaeological fibres and dyes were carried out for various funerary textile objects by using multiple analytical techniques, such as high performance liquid chromatography with photodiode detection, optical microscopy, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR). Fibre identifications were performed for 35 archaeological textile samples, and the results showed that the ancient textiles were mostly made from Bombyx mori silk and wool. The SEM and FT-IR experimental results revealed that these ancient textiles remained morphologically intact due to the special (very dry) climate in Xinjiang, but noticeably degraded at the molecular level due to long time thermo-ageing and/or biodegradation. The principal colouring matters, such as alizarin, purpurin, indigotin and luteolin, were respectively characterised for nine archaeological textile samples. The yellow dyestuffs derived from luteolin-based plants were assumed to have been imported to China from the Middle East and Western Asia through the Silk Road.     

液相色谱质谱联用法研究红花染纺织品褪色分子机理

以红花染纺织品作为主要研究对象,通过紫外光和LED两种光老化方式,研究不同褪色因素影响下纺织品中显色组分红花苷的降解变化情况,实验发现不同酸化作用对红花苷造成不同的影响。采用液相色谱质谱联用的方法,鉴定出红花苷、芹菜素等多种组分,并首次从红花中鉴定出国外报道的但一直未确定的组分Ct4的分子结构,实际是三香豆酰亚精胺,一种酚酰胺类化合物,可作为一种染色工艺指标对现代染和古代染色工艺进行区分。以故宫院藏两件红花染褪色纺织品文物为例阐述褪色机理,显色组分红花苷的降解,产生不同程度的裂化产物小分子,使原本微量存在的三香豆酰亚精胺相对含量增高,从而造成褪色明显,文物在长期日晒下正面原本红色外观呈现橘色打底。同时强调了博物馆应高度重视相同类型文物保存环境中的挥发性酸性气体监测。     

Stitching modernity: the textile work of Fortunato Depero

Fortunato Depero (1892–1960) was a Futurist artist who worked in a variety of artistic mediums, from painting and graphic design to furniture and textiles. His work in textiles, created and produced in close collaboration with his wife, Rosetta Amadori, can be considered the most important development in his artistic career, as it comprised a large portion of his creative production. Yet this work has been largely overlooked. Many reasons explain this oversight, including categorizing inconsistencies – for example, his textiles have been described as embroidery, needlework, tapestry, patchwork, and cloth mosaic – and the persistent relegation of textiles to the realm of crafts and domestic arts rather than art, which has meant that his work in textiles has not been a priority for scholars and conservators of Futurism. This paper places Depero's textiles within the context of early-twentieth-century modernist artistic activities, and demonstrates the centrality of his textile work to his artistic oeuvre.     

天然染料苏木的光褪色机理研究

有机质文物如书画和纺织品在修复保护过程中常常遇到褪色问题,对于染料分子是一种不可逆的损伤,因此有必要采用一定的科学方法对原因机理进行研究。苏木在文化遗产领域常作为天然染料用于纺织品染色,但色牢度较差。通过溶液动力学模拟实验借助紫外光老化过程推测降解副产物,追踪了对曾经在文物中检测到的有效化学组分巴西苏木素和原苏木素B在N,N-二甲基甲酰胺基质里光催化老化代谢过程,分别获得20组不同老化程度的紫外老化的标准品。实验表征手段主要采用紫外可见漫反射光谱、超高效液相色谱四极杆飞行时间质谱联用及核磁共振氢谱对颜色变化趋势和老化过程进行分析。通过苏木染色及丝织品光老化实验,得到17组不同褪色程度的纺织品样品。采用液质联用在负离子模式下结合化学计量学统计分析差异代谢物及老化机制,巴西苏木素、苏木红素及原苏木素B可能的转化及降解产物分别得到一定的推论。结果显示褪色纺织品随着光老化的发生反射光谱最大波长总体发生蓝移。巴西苏木素季碳羟基容易发生脱水反应产生一系列变化,原苏木素B光老化过程容易转化成原苏木素C、尿石素C等化合物。苏木染褪色纺织品总体可分为两类组间差异,通过主成分分析出差异代谢物巴西苏木素、原苏木素B以及C等多种老化产物,这些总体因素造成体系的光老化颜色变化。这些探索性发现期待为今后天然染料的相关研究提供启发,助力提升有机质文物的科学价值认知。     

Textiles as the Face of Modernity: Artistry and Industry in Mid-Century America

This article examines the rise of a new profession of textile designer-intermediary in mid-twentieth-century America in light of the nation’s advancements in textile production, design, display and promotion. Unlike William Morris’s nineteenth-century call for a return to handcrafts to combat the evils of the British Industrial Revolution, American textiles were promoted as the face of modernity to reflect and exploit the miracles of technology. Emerging from these developments came the ‘Super Designers’ and ‘Techno-Craftsmen’, as designers Jack Lenor Larsen and Boris Kroll referred to them, who united handcraft sensibilities with good design and mass production.¹ These traits were also shared by weavers such as Anni Albers, Dorothy Liebes and Marianne Strengell, and designers of printed textiles such as Alexander Girard and Alvin Lustig. Despite an increasing reliance on mechanization, their textiles provided a human element — through texture, colour, pattern and connections to the past — to foil the threat of robotic mass production and mindless monotony. Working as corporate heads, industrial consultants, cultural ambassadors and textile collectors and connoisseurs, these designers emphasized in their work and writing the value of well-designed textiles for both visual and utilitarian purposes, collectively advancing contemporary textiles as ideal representatives of modern American design.