周一汉毛织品的染色工艺探讨

为探讨1985年新疆且末县扎洪鲁克墓群和洛浦山普拉墓群出土的一批周一汉毛染织品的染色工艺，用能量色散x射线荧光仪和色度仪对这批毛染织品分别进行了元素分析和反射光谱的测定。结果表明，这批毛染品均使用植物染料染色，分别采用四种染色工艺：直接染色、媒染染色、复染染色和套染染色。其中，蓝色毛织品为直接染色；红色毛织品采用了媒染、复染工艺，绿色毛织品由蓝色与黄色套染而成。进一步的研究表明，红色毛织品是用铝盐作媒染剂染色而成，铝盐含量与毛织品的色度呈相关性。说明能量色散X射线荧光分析仪和色度仪的使用是分析古代毛染品染色工艺的有效手段。

Discussion on techniques of dyed woollen from Zhou to Han Dynasties

It order to discuss the dye technique of those dyed woollen which are excavated at Zhagunluke and Shapula tombs in Xinjiang in 1985, EDXRF and colorimeter are utilized respectively to analyze the dyed woollen elements and reflex spectrum. The result shows that all these woollen were dyed by plant dyestuffs, among which 4 kinds of techniques were used. They are direct dye, mordant dye, repetitious dye and chromatica dye. Blue woollen were dyed directly. Red woollen were of mordant dye or repetitious dye. And green woollen were chromatically dyed by blue and yellow color. Further study shows that red woollen were using aluminum salt as mordant. The content of aluminum salt is relevant to the chroma of woollen. Therefore, EDXRF and colorimeter are effective ways to analyze and study the ancient woollen.