西汉绛紫绢地“长寿绣”丝绵袍制作工艺考析

笔者对马王堆一号汉墓出土的绛紫绢地“长寿绣”丝绵袍进行了保护修复。为了更好地复原文物,达到适宜展示陈列的状态,在修复之前针对此文物做了材质鉴定、织造工艺、材料老化判断及裁剪工艺等系列研究。在对其制作工艺进行细致、全面的信息采集与数据分析之后发现,这件丝绵袍的裁剪制作工艺与发掘报告所述裁剪缝纫秩序不同,是先刺绣好面料后,再裁剪制衣,证实了马王堆一号汉墓出土曲裾丝绵袍制作工艺的多样性。

A technological study on the production of the Western-Han"Changshou xiu(longevity embroidery)"gown on dark reddish purple woven silk tint

The author conserved and restored the"Changshou xiu(longevity embroidery)"gown on dark reddish purple woven silk tint found in tomb no.1 at the Mawangdui cemetery of the Western Han Dynasty.In order to better restore the artefact and achieve its optimal condition for display,we conducted a series of investigation to understand the material,weaving techniques,degree of deterioration of the material and cutting technique of the artefact.After a careful and thorough study and comprehensive collection of related data,we found that the cutting technique of this gown is different from the cutting and sewing procedures described in the original excavation report.The fabric was embroidered first before cutting and tailoring were done.This finding further confirms the technological diversity in the production of the curly back robed silk gown found in the tomb no.1 at Mawangdui.