对清代八团彩云金龙纹吉服的再认识

在清代服饰研究及实物辨识过程中,人们一般根据《大清会典》和《皇朝礼器图式》等记载清代服饰典制的文献,把八团彩云金龙纹样认定为清代后妃吉服上的专用纹样,并进而以之作为区分清代皇帝和后妃服饰的重要标识。本文通过对故宫博物院收藏的大量清代服饰实物、清代宫廷绘画中的服饰图像以及清代文献中相关的记载等直接或间接的资料的考察和分析,认为这一认识存在片面性和不准确性。事实上,八团彩云金龙纹并非清代后妃服饰所专有的纹饰。清早期,皇帝也曾穿用过饰八团彩云金龙纹的吉服,这种男用八团彩云金龙纹吉服与女用八团彩云金龙纹吉服存在着明显相异的形制特征,并有其特有的始创、演变和消失的历史发展过程。

A Reinterpretation of the Court Robes Emblazoned with Eight Roundels Enclosing Golden Dragons in Flight among Coloured Clouds

In the process of studying Qing Dynasty costume and examining the objects of material history,scholars generally base their studies on the documents regarding Qing Dynasty dress protocols contained in Da Qing Huidian and Huangchao Liqi Tushi.These texts describe court robes emblazoned with eight roundels enclosing golden dragons in flight among coloured clouds as being court robes worn by Qing empresses,and see them as the chief element differentiating the dress of Qing emperors and empresses.On the basis of actual examples of Qing Dynasty court dress in the collection of the Palace Museum,on illustrations of court dress in Qing Dynasty court paintings and on the basis of Qing Dynasty documents, the authors directly and indirectly come to the conclusion that such an accepted view was one- sided and inaccurate.In fact,court robes emblazoned with eight roundels enclosing golden dragons in flight among coloured clouds were not exclusively worn by empresses in the Qing Dynasty.In the early-Qing period,emperors also wore court robes with such motifs,although they were different in shape from those worn by empresses.Moreover,such robes also differ as they evolve through time.