A Recipe Book for Culture Consumers: Yuan Mei and Suiyuan shidan

This article is a study of the writings on food, cooking, and dining by the eighteenth-century poet, essayist, and gourmet Yuan Mei (1716–98) as found in his recipe book Suiyuan shidan. Starting with an overview of the organization and content of Suiyuan shidan, the article offers an analysis of Yuan Mei’s cultural attitudes reflected there and in his works in other genres. The value underlying Suiyuan shidan exemplifies Yuan’s personal response to the Chinese intellectual environment at the end of the eighteenth century. Building a connection between the recipe book and Yuan Mei’s controversial reputation in the literati community, the article explores the changing meaning of culture in eighteenth-century China and Yuan’s way of surviving the intense competition for voice and influence among the cultural elites of the time.