河北隆化鸽子洞元代窖藏织绣品蓝色染料分析

采用光学显微观察、激光拉曼、紫外-可见吸收光谱以及高效液相色谱对河北隆化鸽子洞蓝棉袄蓝色、浅蓝色纤维以及百衲枕顶蓝色纤维进行分析研究.通过多种分析手段相互佐证表明,该组样品采用蓝草中的靛蓝染色,色素成分有靛蓝素和靛玉红.各样品中色素成分比例均不相同,推测至少在元代,人类已经能够有意识地调整制靛工艺,染出自己需要的色光.同时靛蓝染料耐光性耐热性差,对酸、碱和氧化均敏感,耐盐性及耐细菌性较弱.在以靛蓝染色的织物清洗中,要选择性地使用洗涤剂,进行点滴试验后才可使用,同时在存放过程中要做到避光、避免高温.

An Analysis of Blue Pigments on Yuan Dynasty Textiles Stored at Gezi Cave in Longhua,Hebei

The paper examines the fibers of textiles at Gezi Cave in Hebei with several methods, including optical microscopic, Laser Raman, UV-Vis spectroscopy, and high performance liquid chromatography. The analy- sis reveals that the samples contain indigo and indirubin pigments; it also suggests that no later than the Yuan Dy- nasty the Chinese people were able to dye the color as they needed. Meanwhile, because of low degree of tolerance of light, heat, salt and bacteria, and high sensitivity of acid, alkali and oxygen, the detergent for indigo-blue textile cleaning should be carefully selected with small-amount pre-test. Also, light and heat should be highly controlled while storing the textiles.