北京市石景山区一清代墓葬出土纺织品染料与染色方法综合研究

清代的染色技术无论在染料的选择、染色方法,还是在获得颜色的数量上均达到我国古代天然染料染色的最高峰。文献和传世品研究极大推进了对清代纺织品染色技术的了解,但对清代考古纺织品染料的分析研究尚无结果发表。在此,对北京市石景山区2006年出土清代墓葬中纺织品的染料和染色方法进行了研究。化学分析使用超高效液相色谱法,首次将我国考古染料结合历史文献、传世纺织品颜色及染料组成详细比对,检测出苏木、黄檗、含鞣花酸染料(疑为橡斗)及蓝草四种染料。大多数样品上鉴定出一到两种染料,少数样品可能由三种或更多染料染成。相同的染料组合可以通过不同用量获得深浅不同的颜色。研究第一次对同一墓葬出土不同织物的染色方法进行比较,发现同种染料可以用于染不同类型、质地和用途的织物。这套纺织品所用的染料和染色方法与文献记载和传世样品都相符合。这一研究也是针对清代考古出土纺织品染料展开的首次成功的分析鉴定,补充了传世纺织品和染色历史文献,是清代染色史的重要部分。

A comprehensive study of the dyes and dyeing methods for textiles excavated from a Qing tomb in Shijingshan District, Beijing

In this study, a group of textiles excavated from a Qing Dynasty tomb in Shijingshan District, Beijing, were studied in terms of their dyes and dyeing methods. Using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography, and pioneering in China detailed comparison with recorded historical dye recipes, and colors and dye compositions of some textiles handed down from ancient times, we identified sappanwood, Chinese cork tree, a dye containing ellagic acid (probably from acorn cup) and indigo. In most samples, one or two dyes were identified. Only a few samples might have been dyed with three or more dyes. Different color shades were obtained through the same combination of dyestuffs but different amounts of the dyestuffs. Comparison results show for the first time that the same dye was used for textiles of different types and materials, and threads for different uses. The dyes and dyeing methods used for this group of textiles are consistent with the historical records and with the analytical results of historical textiles. This study is also the first successful dye analysis of excavated textiles of the Qing Dynasty. These results supplement historical textile dyeing records, contributing to research on dyeing history of the Qing Dynasty.