一种用于纺织品保护领域的便携式绕网设备

为提供一种用于纺织品保护的便携式绕网机,以绕网机为研究对象,通过查阅文献,梳理了绕网机的发展源流与技术特征,按照传动方式分类可分为手动绕网机、电动绕网机,按照机械结构可分为立式绕网机、卧式绕网机。早期绕网机受技术条件制约,机械结构复杂,编织精度低、质量较重,不便于携带,制约了其使用环境。本研究采用三维建模技术对其绕网机的结构进行设计,结合机械力学原理,对机械材料进行优化配置,设计一种具有操作简便、编织精度高、运行稳定、移动携带便捷等优点绕网设备,以应对复杂条件下纺织品文物保护的需要。     

Wools from textiles in the Wasa, a seventeenth-century Swedish warship

Wool fibre measurements defining fleece type are described from cloth remains found in the seventeenth century wreck of the Wasa in Stockholm harbour. Half the fleeces were from the primitive type known as the hairy medium, and the remainder were distributed over the hairy, generalized medium and medium types, with a few short and fine types. The wools were similar to medieval Swedish wools, being coarser than Viking examples, but finer than the fleeces of living, primitive Swedish Goth breed.     

A TEXTILE WEB

The 1830s has been singled out as the decade in which the Swedish consumer market really started to expand. In the same period, cotton textile production expanded in the Gothenburg area. A small group of immigrant Jewish families played an important role in this development. The impact of Jewish merchants on the growth of the consumer goods market is consistent with international research. Their entrepreneurial activities and renewal of textile production and trade have been emphasized. This has, however, not been paid much attention to in the Swedish research. This article discusses what impact the Jewish immigrants had on the increase of the textile market in Gothenburg and its surroundings. Through a couple of case studies and examples, we want to elucidate the significance of Jewish textile production and trade: Jewish calico printers started up mass production of fashionable fabrics in the 1820s. Furthermore, Jewish merchants spread their goods to customers in the countryside in cooperation with Swedish pedlars. The authors also discuss different reasons why the Jews played such a significant role during this particular period: The role of the legislation, the Jewish textile tradition, access to capital, networks, effective distribution, a growing consumer demand, and the geographical context.     

Made in Italy (by the Chinese): migration and the rebirth of textiles and apparel

People around the world are on the move and settling in new, unexpected places. In Prato, Italy, Chinese immigrants now run most of the city's textiles-apparel companies and even subcontract for such leading designers as Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana. Italian products once made by Italian workers are now increasingly made by the Chinese! I argue that this development resulted from dramatic macro-level policy shifts that created an opportunity for an uncanny synchronicity between the Chinese business approach and the demands of Italy's local, family-based, small-batch production environment. Despite fierce competition, outmoded policies and social friction, the Chinese have adapted to their new home and made significant contributions to an increasingly multiethnic and multicultural Italy.     

福泉山遗址出土象牙器应急保护研究

2010年福泉山遗址出土具重要考古价值的象牙器,腐朽状况十分严重,为了能妥善保存这批珍贵的文物,采用扫描电镜、X衍射、红外光谱、X荧光分析,对其微观形貌、物相、分子结构、元素组成进行分析.分析结果表明,出土象牙器主要成分为碳羟磷灰石,其内部有机成分已完全流失,微观结构中存在的主要多孔道直径因长期受地下各类盐的侵蚀变大,直径范围0.33 ～ 3.6μm.象牙器组成除了Ca,P外,还含有其它多种元素成分.这些元素成分来源于象牙长期地下埋葬环境中各种盐类的侵蚀所致.它干扰羟磷灰石结晶,使其结晶程度降低、晶格稳定性变差.因此,采用B72乙醇/丙酮(1/1,V/V)溶液,对两件象牙权仗、一件象牙权仗柄进行了脱水加固保护,经加固的象牙器强度明显增加,颜色自然.为了对后续出土象牙器的更好保护,研究在B72加固液中复配分子粒径分布较宽的可逆性树脂聚乙烯醇缩丁醛(PVE),以有利于加固液渗透进入象牙内部细小孔道.经检测复配PVE的B72加固液成膜后透光率、膜强度等性能均无明显变化.     

三星堆出土象牙多层级结构及失水过程研究

由于长期埋藏于潮湿的地下环境,三星堆遗址祭祀区出土的象牙含水率高,且存在本体断裂、表面开裂和剥落等问题,保存状况差。出土后的象牙极易快速失水,而发生开裂和粉化等不可逆的损害。为明确三星堆出土象牙的保存现状,采用光谱、能谱、电镜、纳米压痕等测试手段,深入解析了2021年三星堆遗址3、4、7和8号坑(K3、K4、K7、K8)发掘出土象牙的组成、结构及失水过程。结果表明:三星堆遗址四个坑出土象牙的主要物相为碳羟基磷灰石[Ca₁₀(PO₄)₃(CO₃)₃(OH)₂],有机纤维蛋白成分基本消失殆尽,形成了以介孔为主(孔径分布在3~50 nm)的孔隙结构,且孔隙被大量水分占位,其中,K3出土象牙(K3XY-54)和K4出土象牙(K4YW-289)热重所测含水率分别为43.8%和43.4%;四个坑出土象牙均存在片状和针状晶体结构,其中K3XY-54以针状晶体结构为主,并呈现出明显的取向生长,K4YW-289呈现晶体聚集,其晶体尺寸厚度明显增加;出土象牙表面和内部吸附水的挥发使象牙微观结构产生内应力,从而造成出土象牙干裂、粉化等不可逆损坏;采用纳米压痕技术,初步探索了出土象牙在糟朽状态下表面微观硬度的变化,其中K4YW-289经失水前后的表面微观硬度变化差异最大(饱水状态0.090±0.049 GPa,失水后1.553±0.312 GPa),这可能与其组分结构内吸附水含量较少和高泥化现象有关,结合K3XY-54、K7XY-43和K8XY-11-13研究可发现出土象牙在失水前后微观硬度和弹性模量受组分结构-失水速率关系的影响较大。对三星堆出土象牙多层级结构和失水过程的初步研究结果为其后期实施有效保存和本体加固提供有力的科学依据和参考数据。     

古代织物的斜面平台清洗与装匣保护

对较常用的古代丝织物托网清洗方法进行了改进,采用斜面平台法对织物进行清洗。在清洗过程中采用低浓度表面活性剂,并在有隔膜及吸水纸保护状态下对织物进行熨烫。利用复合三合板作为底衬,聚脂薄膜覆面,然后将织物装入带玻璃盖的木匣中保存。这样,既有效地保护了织物,同时又利于展览与收藏。该方法使用简单,效果良好,是古代织物保护的有效方法之一。     

几件西沙华光礁I号沉船遗址出水瓷器的保护研究

为了对8件西沙华光礁I号沉船遗址出水瓷器进行表面凝结物去除、脱盐清洗和残缺补全等保护处理,采用X射线衍射(XRD),对瓷器表面凝结物进行了成分分析;用三维视频显微镜对瓷器进行脱盐前、后的显微照相对比;对瓷器表面微孔内的物质,用扫描电镜分析(SEM)方法进行成分检测;用电导率仪测量瓷器脱盐过程中电导率变化情况。结果表明,出水瓷器表面凝结物,容易机械去除的样品,其成分主要是镁方解石及文石;不容易机械去除的样品,其成分主要是锰白云石及文石。瓷器微孔内的白色物质为含氯盐分。经两周时间的脱盐清洗,出水瓷器的脱盐电导率值降至较低水平。本工作结果可为西沙海域出水瓷器的后续保护提供资料。     

Polarized light microscopy casts new light on plants used to make tapa

Information about plant materials of construction in artefacts advances knowledge about human history, agriculture, trade, migration and adaptation to new environments. Typically, materials identification in artefacts made from plants is problematic, since processing, age, dirt and surface treatments can mask identifying features, while ethical considerations relating to sampling limit the use of some analytical techniques. The study tests the usefulness of polarized light microscopy for identifying the New Zealand and Pacific plant species used to make tapa, indicating birefringent and morphological characteristics that can be used to differentiate fibres at the level Moraceae (Pacific; from genera Artocarpus, Broussonetia and Ficus) and Malvaceae (New Zealand; from genera Hoheria and Plangianthus).     

Pollen studies of textile material from an Iron Age grave at Hammerum,Denmark

This article presents the methods employed and the results obtained in pollen studies of a prehistoric grave, identifying a fascinating and productive context for pollen analyses: prehistoric textiles. The methods involved direct sampling from the grave during excavation and various measures aimed at minimizing the risk of contamination, thereby maximising the information gained about various aspects of contemporary prehistoric life. The example used was an Iron Age grave from Hammerum, Denmark which was found to contain very well preserved clothing. The clothing and surrounding sediment were block excavated, providing a unique opportunity to collect samples for pollen analysis from both the textile material and from the underlying grave sediment. This allowed comparison of pollen assemblages from different components within the grave and an assessment of the method itself. The effort involved was rewarded with a set of results which permitted detailed interpretation. Large amounts of pollen of crops and associated anthropogenic plants in the textile sample suggest that agricultural work was the primary source of the pollen embedded in the clothing. In contrast, the pollen assemblages from the sediment samples very clearly reflected the surrounding local vegetation.