明吴氏墓压金云霞翟纹霞帔织物的复制与实践

罗是中国传统丝织物,是我国历史悠久和高度文明的产物。明宁靖王夫人吴氏墓出土的压金云霞翟纹霞帔,经专家认定,是迄今为止经密度最高的八经循环四经链式绞罗。该面料制作工艺十分复杂,代表了明代超高的丝织技艺水平。苏州市锦达丝绸有限公司对该霞帔织物进行分析研究,从制作工艺、组织结构以及上机装造等方面进行复制。经过三年多的反复实践,该霞帔面料终于复制成功,对于探索古代纱罗组织结构范畴和完善纱罗组织系统的研究有着重大意义。     

成都老官山汉墓出土织机复原研究

成都老官山汉墓出土了四台多综织机模型,提供了古代多综织机的实物证据。它们都采用一样的移动齿梁选综机构,提综机机构却有不同,一台织机用一个旋转踏板提升滑框,滑框再提升多片纹综。另外三台方法相同,用一个旋转踏板提升连杆,连杆再提升多片纹综。通过出土文物的实物对照,分析选综机构和提综机构的机械原理,比较两种提综机构的性能优劣,从而推断滑框式织机可以织造经向纹样循环大的经锦,但操作较费力;曲柄连杆式织机织造的经锦纹样循环虽小,但操作省力。分析过程同时也展示了古人杰出的智慧和创造力。     

“改机”及其相关问题探讨

改机是明弘治年间福建人林洪创制的一种织物,曾行销一时。但这究竟是怎样一种织物,众说纷纭,至今未明。经作者研究,改机的织机衍生于缎机,织者改缎机的五片综为四片综而继续保留高齿密的缎筘,织物的地组织为平纹、斜纹或二者的变化组织,用料多选水丝。所以,改机织品的特点是细纤高密、质地坚实、光滑柔韧。其性质如绫、罗、绸、缎,是一个基础品种类别。以它为基础地组织,可以织造平素、暗花、织金、妆花、闪色等各类花色品种的改机织物。改机属于高价位的高档织物,四川缎机宁绸是其在清代的孑遗。     

明定陵出土帝后服饰（二）

3．蔽膝 蔽膝,冕服中系在前面垂于腰带下,因在膝前,所以叫做蔽膝。由于最早衣服形成是先有蔽前之衣,所以后来把蔽膝施之于冕服上,以表示不忘古之意。蔽膝用在冕服叫“芾”,用在祭服叫“钹”。定陵出土2件。皆呈梯形,上窄下宽,红素罗面（为四经绞罗组织,经紧密,纬线较粗。经密：120根／厘米,纬密：14根／厘米）,     

明定陵出土丝织品种（下）

是绞纱组织,质地轻薄,丝缕纤细,经丝按一定规律绞缠,形成均匀分布的绞链状或罗孔。透风凉爽,是夏季的服饰衣料。罗的历史较早,在春秋战国之前就已经有了。汉代已能织出复杂的罗,如马王堆汉墓出土的丝织品中就有复杂的四经绞罗,宋代时罗更是风靡一时,成为江南一带非常名贵的丝织品。     

北宋当阳峪绞胎瓷特色及制作工艺

北宋时期当阳峪窑大规模盛产陶瓷,绞胎瓷因其独有的特色成为当阳峪窑的代表之一.本文通过探寻当阳峪绞胎瓷的历史,从绞胎瓷的特点入手,将其归纳为绞胎、纹理、人文三个方面,针对仿古绞胎瓷的制作工艺进行了实例分析,提出绞胎瓷工艺传承重要性.     

唐绞胎器的胎釉和制作工艺研究

一、前言人们对唐绞胎器的研究,与唐三彩几乎是同步的。而对唐三彩的认识,至今不足百年。20世纪初,陇海铁路修筑到河南洛阳时,于邙山脚下的古墓中出土了很多唐三彩。这些以黄、绿、白三色为主的釉陶,虽然古老得逾千年,却色彩斑驳、润泽晶莹,运抵北京后中外藏家竞相购买,于是,唐三彩之名一夜之间传遍天下。唐绞胎器的发现不比唐三彩早,1954年,傅振伦先生于《全国各地发现的古代重要陶瓷器》一文中说:“唐人墓和遗址中出土了不少名瓷……绞胎瓷器的出土,有陕县刘家渠的瓷枕,纹如木理。宁波出土褐地双耳黄釉瓶,同时发现了绞胎黄釉枕,农安辽朝八…     

罗:暮霭沉沉的东方浪漫

“罗衣何飘飘,轻据随风还”“记得绿罗裙,处处怜芳草”……绞经多孔的丝织物“罗”,总与女性的婀娜多姿、继深情密不可分。是什么令罗在诗人眼前、心上留痕,成就美丽的东方情感意象?     

清代学者疑年考——姜亮夫《历代人物年里碑传综表》订讹

清代学者钱大昕曾纂次古今文人生卒年寿之可考者,为《疑年绿》四卷。其后赓续之作纷出,姜亮夫先生尝撰《六续疑年录》,后经扩充,增补修订,易名曰《历代人物年里碑传综表》。其书后出,蒐罗最富,查检甚便,为学者治史必不可少之书。惟历代人物,来如繁星,其偶有违失,固不害为名山盛业;订讹补阙,正后学者之责也。本文专就其书清人生卒年岁有疑误者,辨正是非,凡举正五十五事。     

略述我国古代的纱织物

我国古代丝织物,有绫、罗,绸、缎、纱等品种,纱虽列于后,但其生产历史并不是最短的。以各地出土的纺织品实物来看,特别是近年来我国南北有几省出土的丝织物残片中,都有纱织物。如一九七三年河北省藁城县出土的商代丝织物残片中,有绞纱组织的织物,其经纬密度为36×27根/厘米,经线直径为0.3毫米,纬线直径为0.4毫米;辽     

Two‐needle knitting and cross‐knit looping: early bronze age pottery imprints from anatolia and the caucasus

There is ample evidence for the use of prehistoric loom‐woven, tabby fabric (made by plain warp and weft technique) in the construction of pottery. Ancient potters from the steppe regions of central Asia through to Anatolia and in some parts of Europe sometimes built their wares aided by old fragments of cloth and basketry, which left impressions on and in the walls of their vessels. In the highlands of eastern Turkey at the site of Sos Höyük and at Chobareti, in Georgia, the impressions on Early Bronze Age pottery include an array of textiles and, notably, what appears to be the earliest known evidence for two‐needle knitting and for the continued use of the single‐element, cross‐knit looping (also known as Coptic ‘nalbinding’) made using an eyed‐needle, a craft which has been found in Pre‐Pottery Neolithic contexts of the Levant. Various basketry techniques are also represented.     

Economy and Respectability: Textiles from the North Brisbane Burial Ground

Textile remains were discovered during a salvage excavation at the site of the North Brisbane Burial Ground, a nineteenth-century cemetery in the city of Brisbane, Australia. Ninety-six textile samples were collected at excavation, comprising 39 twill weaves, 17 tabby weaves, one haircord weave, one satin weave, three knitted fabrics, one piece of felt and 34 masses of loose wool packing. Most of the woven textiles recovered were coffin coverings or coffin linings. Similarly, the majority of non-woven textile samples were also associated with coffins and their dressing. Five of the identified textiles were likely to have been fragments of garments worn by the deceased.     

《中华赤色邮政湘赣省总局》丝绸局牌的复制

根据对国家一级革命物的考证,确定它为手工束综提花机织成的提花丝织绫,从采集到的原始数据,结合传统的纺织工艺技术资料,设计复原织造手段及相关工艺,复制出物基体坯绸。按物做旧如旧的原则,先进行织物的老化处理,再做旧,使复制物尽量与原物相一致。     

场域织补:旅游传统村落更新理论新议

文章引入织补理论和场域理论，采用理论演绎与概念诠释方法，从场域织补视角出发对旅游传统村落更新理论进行思辨。研究发现，旅游重构了传统村落更新方向与逻辑，村落“碎片化”提供了织补理论应用的复杂性与矛盾性条件；旅游引发传统村落场域解构为旅游、生活、生产三大子场域，资本分化和竞争加大场域内外压力并引致场域失调；在保持村落复杂性前提下，场域织补可通过调适场域而作用于旅游传统村落更新过程。研究认为，场域织补的基本内容包括文化场域织补和关系场域织补，可运用资本调适作为场域织补的技术工具。     

一种用于纺织品保护领域的便携式绕网设备

为提供一种用于纺织品保护的便携式绕网机,以绕网机为研究对象,通过查阅文献,梳理了绕网机的发展源流与技术特征,按照传动方式分类可分为手动绕网机、电动绕网机,按照机械结构可分为立式绕网机、卧式绕网机。早期绕网机受技术条件制约,机械结构复杂,编织精度低、质量较重,不便于携带,制约了其使用环境。本研究采用三维建模技术对其绕网机的结构进行设计,结合机械力学原理,对机械材料进行优化配置,设计一种具有操作简便、编织精度高、运行稳定、移动携带便捷等优点绕网设备,以应对复杂条件下纺织品文物保护的需要。     

Google earth and the archaeology of Saudi Arabia. A case study from the Jeddah area

Archaeologically, Saudi Arabia is one of the least explored parts of the Middle East. Now, thanks to Google Earth satellite imagery, a number of high-resolution ‘windows’ have been opened onto the landscape. Initial investigations already suggest large parts of the country are immensely rich in archaeological remains and most of those identified are certainly pre-Islamic and probably several thousand years old. Detailed interpretation of one ‘window’ east of Jeddah forms the basis for illustrating the richness of the heritage and how the satellite imagery can be exploited to shed important light on the character and development of the human landscape. Through this ‘window’ we set out a proposed methodology for future work and where it may lead.     

西汉绛紫绢地“长寿绣”丝绵袍制作工艺考析

笔者对马王堆一号汉墓出土的绛紫绢地“长寿绣”丝绵袍进行了保护修复。为了更好地复原文物,达到适宜展示陈列的状态,在修复之前针对此文物做了材质鉴定、织造工艺、材料老化判断及裁剪工艺等系列研究。在对其制作工艺进行细致、全面的信息采集与数据分析之后发现,这件丝绵袍的裁剪制作工艺与发掘报告所述裁剪缝纫秩序不同,是先刺绣好面料后,再裁剪制衣,证实了马王堆一号汉墓出土曲裾丝绵袍制作工艺的多样性。     

西汉绛紫绢地“长寿绣”丝绵袍制作工艺考析

笔者对马王堆一号汉墓出土的绛紫绢地“长寿绣”丝绵袍进行了保护修复。为了更好地复原文物,达到适宜展示陈列的状态,在修复之前针对此文物做了材质鉴定、织造工艺、材料老化判断及裁剪工艺等系列研究。在对其制作工艺进行细致、全面的信息采集与数据分析之后发现,这件丝绵袍的裁剪制作工艺与发掘报告所述裁剪缝纫秩序不同,是先刺绣好面料后,再裁剪制衣,证实了马王堆一号汉墓出土曲裾丝绵袍制作工艺的多样性。     

Jean-Jacques Rousseau on women and citizenship

The aim of this article is to shed light on the eighteenth-century Italian reflection on luxury and consumption in a comparative perspective, clarifying, on the one hand, the complex significance that it assumed and, on the other, the specificity of the Italian context, marked by the immense political value of the debate on the subject. In particular this objective will be pursued through the analysis of specific cases among the many offered by the Italian context and through different research strands. These are: the debate on the evaluation of luxury; the transition from the notion of luxury to that of consumption; and the discussion on luxury and consumption in the revolutionary context. This article intends to outline the particular contribution made by Italian thought, which conveyed a multifaceted discourse of social reform, critique and understanding built on more even foundations, and at the same time to clarify what contribution can be made to current historiography by the study of this theme within eighteenth-century Italy.