Beach Morphodynamics in Australia 1970s–2010

A seminal publication by Wright and Thom on coastal morphodynamics followed by a detailed yet expansive range of beach field experiments resulted in the publication of Wright and Short, which presented a fresh morphodynamic approach to the study of beaches. The development of the morphodynamic approach to coastal systems had its origin at Louisiana State University in the 1960–1970s, where Thom, Wright, and Short were students during this period. On their respective returns to Australia in the 1970s, they utilised the vast Australian coastal environment to apply this approach across a wide range of coastal settings and time frames developing the now universal wave‐dominated beach model, followed later by tide‐modified and tide‐dominated beach models, as well as a fresh approach to dunes, barriers, estuaries, and the shoreface. This paper reviews the emergence of the morphodynamic approach in Australia and its subsequent impacts.     

Formation of beach‐ridge plains: an appreciation of the contribution by Jack L. Davies

A robust debate among coastal geomorphologists as to the processes by which beach‐ridge plains around Australia have formed was initiated by a former President of the Institute of Australian Geographers. This review gives special consideration to the work of Jack L. Davies, whose academic contributions to coastal geomorphology in Australia have not always been appropriately acknowledged when explaining how similar plains have evolved elsewhere in the world. Davies recognised that relatively steep storm waves caused erosion (cut) on beaches, whereas less steep long‐period swell waves returned sand (fill). He considered the beach berm to be the nucleus on which a beach ridge formed, which could subsequently develop into a foredune, in contrast to cobble ridges that were deposited during storms. Offshore conditions regulate supply of sand to the shoreline, partly through effects on wave refraction, with higher rates of supply where the nearshore is shallow. It was apparent to Davies that the elevation of successive ridges might, but not necessarily, provide evidence of past changes of sea level, despite adornment by variable amounts of windblown dune sand. Morphodynamic understanding of long‐term coastal evolution, based on radiocarbon dating chronologies, has demonstrated that Australian coastal plains formed over the past ~6,000 years when sea level has been close to its present level, in contrast to several documented locations in the northern hemisphere where the sea has been rising for the past few millennia. Particularly insightful were observations by Davies that ridge formation could be influenced by a range of factors including changes in sea level, storminess, or sediment supply. These factors acting singly or in combination seem likely to change in the future. Understanding such responses remains a high priority and can be addressed by new technologies, such as light detection and ranging, optically stimulated luminescence dating, ground‐penetrating radar, and computer simulation.     

Role of Infragravity Energy in Bar Formation in a Strong‐Wind Bay: Observations from Seaford Beach,Port Phillip Bay,Australia

Measurements of the surf zone wave field and morphology were obtained from a multi‐barred beach in a fetch‐limited, strong‐wind bay (Seaford, southeastern Australia) during both low‐ and high‐energy conditions. Analysis of the infragravity energy present during high‐energy events (onshore winds >7 ms^?1) revealed that it was broad‐banded, consisting of a mixture of standing and progressive motions and displaying daily variations in standing wave length scales. Infragravity standing waves were therefore not considered significant to the formation and migration of bars at Seaford during this study, with bar behaviour during high energy events potentially attributable to either breaking wave‐bed return flow and/or self‐organisational mechanisms.     

Buried raised beaches on the northern side of the forth valley,central Scotland

In an area on the northern side of the River Forth, between the Menteith moraine and Kincardine‐on‐Forth, the stratigraphy of the carselands was investigated by hand‐boring, the results being augmented from commercial borehole records. The information obtained indicates that a series of raised beaches, composed of fine‐grained, marine‐estuarine sediments, is buried beneath the carse. Best developed between the Menteith moraine and Blairdrummond and between Abbey Craig and Menstrie, these buried beaches can be correlated with the buried raised beach sequence beneath the carselands south of the River Forth.     

The fantasy of access: Neoliberal ordering of a public beach

Neoliberal governance has led to the progressive privatization and ordering of urban public spaces, restricting their use as domains of political expression and visible identity formation. While the processes of privatization have taken a variety of forms, the end result either produces new privately-owned spaces or restricts access and behavior in extant public space. A programmatic, bourgeois-public space emerges where a fantasy of open-access occludes the experience of exclusion. This fantasy of inclusive public space is upheld by dualistically countering its faux-democratic state management against private ownership. Though scholars have theorized the neoliberal production of public spaces elsewhere, this paradigm has rarely been applied to the large and proximate public beaches and coastlines that bound US lands. This paper seeks to complicate our understanding of the process of privatization by countering legal and experiential exclusions that govern access to beaches in Connecticut. A study of the Eastern Point beaches in Groton, Connecticut is used to analyze the impacts of a Connecticut Supreme Court case that struck down residents-only restricted beaches. Supported by empirical data from beachgoers at the small public and private beaches, the mechanics of exclusion are shown to hinge upon race class and locality. Though Connecticut beaches are now more legally inclusive, results from this research indicate that the ruling has had negligible effects upon the practice of social exclusion from the beach. Using anarchist theories of spatial practice, I suggest that a democratic public space can only be achieved through occupation and embodied resistance to neoliberal ordering.     

Day-to-day variations in nearshore bar patterns on a small sandy beach through a lunar tidal cycle

Nearshore water circulation and bar patterns at Coledale, New South Wales, were surveyed daily over thirty-six consecutive days, from 3 November to 8 December 1978, to identify sequences of changes that might occur in response to spring-to-spring tide cycles of fourteen days, changing barometric and wind conditions associated with the passage of anticyclonic weather systems across the coast, and day to day variation in the nearshore wave regime. During the survey the bar patterns tended to vary from transverse bars, through a composite arrangement incorporating longshore and transverse bars, to a longshore bar pattern as the tide changed from its spring to neap tide phase. However, this sequence was too brief to unequivocally establish variations in nearshore bar pattern that might be attributed to the fourteen day, spring-to-spring tide cycle. Nevertheless, morphologic changes occurring in response to wave regime fluctuation at Coledale were broadly in accord with studies from elsewhere by Dolan et al. (1979, 1982), and Clarke and Eliot (1982, 1983) in that bars and rips were systematically distributed along the beach. At Coledale, bars tended to relocate approximately 0.4 and 0.75 of the distance along the beach from its southern end. The preferred bar spacing closely matches hypothetical standing waves trapped between the headlands of the Coledale embayment. Temporally, the nearshore morphology is highly responsive to wave regime changes such that, as primary breaker heights decrease and remain below H_max=1.0m, the bar pattern changes from longshore through mixed to transverse bar patterns within three to five days. On one occasion the bar pattern switched from a longshore to a transverse bar pattern within twenty-four hours.     

Meteor radar observation at Kyoto in two C.T.O.P. periods (July 20–August 7, 1978, and March 13–29, 1979)

Meteor radar data taken in 1978–1979 at Kyoto station (35°N, 136°E) are processed statistically by Groves' algorithm (1959). Analysis is done especially for data in two C.T.O.P. campaigns carried out in summer and in spring to study a seasonal variation of tides. The reliability of the algorithm is clarified by a simulation with a realistic model. Vertical wavelengths of the diurnal tide and the semidiurnal tide are estimated from height profiles. The diurnal tide becomes evanescent in summer, and the semidiurnal tide appears to be the S_2,2 mode in summer and the S_2,4 mode in spring. This suggestion regarding the semidiurnal tidal modes agrees with the latitudinal variation deduced from many other meteor radar data. Tidal wave energy in the meteor region is estimated. A sudden enhancement of energy is observed in both the diurnal and the semidiurnal tides. There is a clear correlation between an energy decrease of the diurnal tide and an energy increase of the semidiurnal tide.     

Pottery technology in the Tang dynasty (ninth century ad): archaeometric analyses of a Gongyi sherd found at Siraf,Iran

In 1969–70, a single Tang dynasty blue‐spotted Gongyi sherd was found at Siraf, Iran, the main trading port on the Persian Gulf in the early Islamic period. This is the only known example of Chinese blue‐and‐white ware, whether low‐ or high‐fired, found in the Middle East from such an early date. The sherd provides direct archaeological evidence for the Indian Ocean trade between China and the Middle East in the ninth century ad . The body paste, clear glaze and blue glaze or pigment were analysed by thin‐section petrography, scanning electron microscopy with energy‐dispersive X‐ray spectrometry (SEM‐EDX) and X‐ray fluorescence (XRF). The technological analysis reveals the different steps of the chaîne opératoire: clay mixing, slip and glaze application, and decoration with the cobalt blue glaze before high‐temperature firing. These steps are characteristic of Tang stoneware production at Gongyi in Henan province, China. The use of cobalt blue pigment as part of a simple spotted decoration scheme on the Gongyi sherd, and its find context within the Middle East, provides evidence for the complex interplay and influence occurring between Chinese and Middle East ceramic industries at this time. Closely comparable examples of contemporary low‐fired earthenware ceramics with cobalt blue decoration on a white tin glaze manufactured within the Middle East also occur within the same assemblage from Siraf.     

The Influence of Headland Alignment on the Plan Shape of Modelled Zeta-Form Beaches

The east coast of Australia includes many beaches exhibiting a zeta-form or log spiral curve when viewed in plan. It has already been established that there is a relationship between the orientation of such beaches and their curvature. This paper extends understanding by examining the relationship of the upswell headland and the curvature of model beaches. A wave tank model simulates the variation in beach orientation relative to wave approach direction and examines the response in beach curvature to changes in headland alignment.     

A nonlinear simulation of the thermal diurnal tide

A simplified middle atmosphere general circulation model is used to investigate the nonlinear behavior of the thermal diurnal tidal waves. In the model, only a westward moving diurnal tide generated by heating with zonal wavenumber 1 is considered. The tidal wave propagation is simulated by a full nonlinear calculation with a convective adjustment scheme and a Richardson number dependent vertical eddy diffusion.The numerical results show that the growth of the diurnal tide due to the density stratification is effectively suppressed and a relatively constant amplitude distribution with height is realized by the convective adjustment in the lower thermosphere. It is also shown that mean zonal winds and mean meridional circulations are induced by the diurnal tidal waves in the region where the tidal waves are breaking by convective instability, in accordance with the wave-mean flow interaction theorem.     

The lower paleolithic of the Near East

The Near East forms the geographic crossroads between Africa, Asia and Europe and was certainly a main route for the dispersal of Homo erectusinto Eurasia. The study of Lower Paleolithic sites in this region and in the neighboring Caucasus area sheds some light on several potential colonization events. Sites such as Ubeidiya (Jordan Valley) and Dmanisi (Georgia) suggest the early sorties took place around 1.4-1.0 Ma. Despite the lack of radiometric dates, sequences of raised beaches, marine deposits, river terraces, and paleolake formations have enabled various investigators to identify several series of major aggradation and erosion periods within the Pleistocene. Lithic assemblages derived from a few systematic excavations and collections from stratigraphically dated outcrops led to a threefold subdivision of the Acheulian sequence into the Lower, Middle, and Upper Acheulian. The study of nonbiface assemblages, however, has not resolved the question of whether these assemblages deserve inclusion as separate entities or should be viewed as sites within the Acheulian settlement pattern. While the typotechnological definitions of each major phase can be compared to what is known from other regions of the Old World, the Acheulo-Yabrudian (or the Mugharan Tradition) is seen as a local entity. Rare human remains and scarce data concerning subsistence activities do not warrant a comparative discussion with what is known from African and some European sites.     

Sensory geographies and defamiliarisation: migrant women encounter Brighton Beach

This article’s starting point is a sensory, reflexive walk taken on Brighton seafront and beach, by fourteen migrant women and some of their children. It goes on to open up a wider discussion about the cultural politics and affective resonances, for refugees and migrants, of beaches. By discussing their sensory experiences of the beach, we begin to understand their ‘ostranenie’, or defamiliarisation, of making the familiar strange. We also see how evocative such sense-making can be, as the women compare their past lives to this, perceiving their lifeworld through a filter of migrancy.

The article goes onto discuss the broader cultural symbolism of beaches, which are a site of contestation over national values, boundaries and belonging. As well as discussing sensory methodology in this article, and explaining the locale of Brighton Beach itself, it concludes with some wider thinking of the cultural politics of beach spaces and migrant perceptions.     

Monthly simulations of the lunar semi-diurnal tide

Although having a much smaller amplitude than solar tides, lunar tides are also present in the atmosphere. Lunar tides are attractive for theoretical and observational studies because their frequencies and forcing are better determined than for any other atmospheric waves. Lunar tides are generated by the lunar tidal potential which itself is very well determined. However, this potential also affects the Earth and oceans, modifying their mass distributions and elevations, and creating secondary tidal potentials as well as periodic movements of their interfaces with the atmosphere. The periodic load of ocean over the Earth crust due to the tides also induces a secondary modification of tidal potential as well as movement of the atmosphere interface. In our present work we seek to provide a comprehensive model of atmospheric M2 lunar tidal oscillations from the surface to the lower thermosphere (c. 105 km), taking account of the above-mentioned effects i.e. Earth, ocean and load tides. This study is motivated by two facts. First, we now have good determinations of ocean tides using satellite altimetry whereas previous studies of lunar tides were based only on numerical simulations of these ocean tides. Second, some reliable analyses of lunar tides in the lower thermosphere are now available as radars are now operating over a sufficiently long period. Their number should increase in the near future leading to a need for a theoretical study of lunar tides. In this paper, we develop a numerical model and analyse the effects of the different primary and secondary forcings on the lunar tide. Monthly simulations are discussed, and some comparisons with available data (at ground level as well as in the lower thermosphere) are presented.     

Evaluating soil resilience in long-term cultivation: a study of pre-Columbian terraces from the Paca Valley, Peru

This study evaluated the soil properties of pre-Hispanic stone-walled terraces by comparing soil quality along terraced catenas in the Paca Valley, a tributary of the Mantaro Valley, Peru. Micromorphological and bulk analyses of terrace soils revealed that despite terracing soil horizonation largely followed the catena. Upland terraced fields had deeper A-horizons with higher biotic activity than uncultivated controls, but less fine material and greater carbonate accumulation. Midslope fields were highly variable in depth and soil properties reflecting considerable substrate and anthropogenic variations in this growing zone. Silts and clay accumulated in valley bottom terraces where pedofeatures indicate an ongoing downhill movement of fine material. The distribution of soil separates down Paca hillsides demonstrates that terraces help moderate, rather than control, the erosion of key soil fractions required for long-term agricultural productivity. This study illustrates how the loss of fine material is partly mitigated by soil consolidation in dense topsoil peds, microaggregates and saprolite. These aggregates are retained by terraces and contribute to deep soil profiles. Nevertheless, many fields show signs of degradation, especially from insufficient organic matter amendment. In addition to farming itself, buried soils and associated artefacts in valley bottom fields indicate mass soil movement, a likely result of disruption caused by Inca road and terrace construction. The poor soil quality of many upland terraces also confirms that stone-walled terraces were constructed on mediocre substrates for farming, indicating a high labour investment for marginal agricultural returns in these areas. Overall, Paca Valley terraces improve topsoil retention and promote deep soil profiles. However, these fields present quite varied growing substrates. It is also apparent that over the last millennium, soil depletion from cultivation has compromised soil quality through loss of fine material and organic matter. Shifts in farming practice away from pre-Hispanic practices such as long-fallow and middening appear to exacerbate this trend.     

Geographical Requisites in the Selection of Areas for Economic Development in the Middle Ob' District

Development potentialities of the Middle Ob' district are analyzed in terms of three natural areas. The well-drained terraces on the margins of the Ob' valley are found to be most suitable for town development. The left-bank area offers additional land for economic development, but the extensive swamp cover of the right bank imposes serious obstacles. Because of the southward orientation of the Middle Ob' oil district, it is recommended that priority be given to town development and transport routes on the left-bank margins of the Ob' valley. This is contrary to the present tendency of developing towns on the right-bank margins of the valley.     

Post‐9/11 Masculinist Incursions in Iraq and Afghanistan: Women’s Bodies as Bullets in Imperialist Agendas

The gender question in the Middle East now serves ends beyond the local. It may be registered within a cluster of international patriarchal war‐promoting discourses that find tremendous benefit in the historical bulk of literature that demonizes the Middle Eastern male and victimizes the female. This article attempts to defend two related arguments, both of which are well served by Foucault’s Biopolitics (Foucault, The birth of biopolitics), in which he correlates between territorial control and the violence inherent to any hegemony’s preoccupation with the body (i.e., the Middle Eastern/Muslim woman’s body) and Achille Mbembe’s theory of Necroplotics and its designation of who “may live” and who “must die” (Mbembé, 2003:11–4). I argue that in the post‐9/11 era, the world has witnessed a globalist civilizational masculinist incursion on its demonized Middle Eastern/Islamic Other. The militaristic discourse at work seems to be self‐appropriating the Middle Eastern/Muslim woman’s body as a site of sexual oppression and (mis)using it to its own means. The impetus of the 9/11 necropolitics, aggressively transposes gender dialog/conflict in the Middle East/Muslim countries from a benign social and intellectual interface, where different alliances may be negotiated, to an aggressive militaristic zone, where the “bogeyman” must “die.”     

Hawaiians in the fur trade of north‐west America, 1785–1820

Abstract

The 1941 decision to remove the New Guinea administration headquarters from Rabaul because of volcanic dangers was again taken up by the post‐war administration under J. K. Murray in 1946. However, decision‐making and planning negotiations between the Territory and Canberra were so protracted by public service inefficiency, contradictory expert and official opinions and the difficulty of finding a suitable port to replace Simpson Harbour that very little had been accomplished by 1951 when Paul Hasluck was appointed Minister for Territories. Hasluck accepted the recommendation of newly appointed Assistant Administrator D. Cleland that the wharf be rebuilt at Simpson Harbour and the township be moved to Nonga‐Tavui. In doing so he rejected the long‐held position of Murray, approved by previous ministers, that a new town and port be constructed at Kokopo. But Cabinet, whose consent was needed for extra‐budgetary costs in the Territory, was motivated by a different agenda and years of planning and negotiations came to nothing when it was decided that Rabaul and its wharf should be rebuilt on their original sites.     

Molluscan death assemblages from uplifted Holocene terraces,Mahia Peninsula,New Zealand,interpreted from present-day intertidal ecology

Beu, A.G., August 2016. Molluscan death assemblages from uplifted Holocene terraces, Mahia Peninsula, New Zealand, interpreted from present-day intertidal ecology. Alcheringa 41, xxx–xxx. ISSN 0311-5518.

Macrofossils from cover beds of marine terraces at Table Cape, Mahia Peninsula, uplifted coseismically ca 250, 1400, 1850 and 3500 years ago are compared with the fauna living on the nearby 200-m-wide intertidal rock platform. The inner platform is dry at low tide, apart from shallow pools containing Diloma aethiops and abundant but unexpected specimens of Zeacumantus subcarinatus and Cominella glandiformis exposed to the sun; all are common fossils in the terrace cover beds. The outer platform is carpeted densely with the alga Hormosira and shelters a diverse fauna, again all common fossils in the terrace cover beds. Sand and gravel containing shell fragments and supporting Zostera sea-grass turf unexpectedly covers ca 5% of the platform in low areas along the east coast. The fossil fauna is listed from 47 samples from two trenches excavated east–west and north–south through the terrace cover beds. Death assemblages of 158 molluscs, including 24 new records as fossils, and 11 taxa in other phyla delimit sediment derived from four shell accumulation sites identified around the present cape: storm beach, high-tidal strand line, hollows in the rock platform and Zostera flats. Up to 32 of the 47 samples (68%) possibly were deposited in Zostera flats; the rest were sand beach accumulations deposited at and near the high-tidal strand line. All fossils common in the cover beds lived on the rock platform. Differences between the deposits in the two trenches result from two factors. Protection along the east coast by protruding tephra beds and an outer rampart armoured with the macroalga Durvillaea prevented erosion of Zostera-supporting sediment which, therefore, was retained after each uplift event. The exposed eastern position of Table Cape also caused sediment to be transported predominantly westwards, onshore on the east coast but away from Table Cape along the north coast.

A.G. Beu [a.beu@gns.cri.nz], Paleontology Department, GNS Science, PO Box 30368, Lower Hutt 5040, New Zealand.     

Early Colonization,Glacial Melt Water,and Island Mass Effect in the Archipelago of Western Sweden: A Case History

In this short article I consider the relationship between glacial melt water that empties into the sea, and early coastal colonization by hunter‐gatherers. In addition, I contend that this archaeological/oceanographical case study from the Swedish west coast is a model that can be applied to other coastal areas of the world with raised beaches, and where similar conditions prevailed during the close of the Late Glacial and the beginning of the early Post Glacial.     

On sampling the upper crustal reservoir of the NE Pacific Ocean

The oceanic upper crustal reservoir is a 600‐m thick layer of porous and permeable basaltic rock that forms the uppermost igneous basement underlying the global ocean. Pore spaces within this fluid aquifer contain a significant fraction of the global seawater, and active circulation through this reservoir has profound influence on the chemical composition of the ocean, strongly impacting the biological environment near the sea surface. Because of the relative inaccessibility of the deep seafloor, where hydrothermal fluid discharges and seawater re‐charges the oceanic crustal aquifer, our understanding of the dynamic physical, chemical and biological processes is strongly dependent on our ability to obtain uncontaminated samples from this challenging environment. Recent technological advances have addressed some, but certainly not all of these sampling problems, providing new data and samples that test our current hypotheses about the crustal fluid reservoir. Current scientific interest in the sub‐seafloor biosphere has focused on the uppermost igneous oceanic crust as likely to be one of the most habitable environments, because of its porosity and locus of hydrothermal circulation of chemical nutrients. Recent observations indicate that sub‐seafloor crustal environments harbor novel CO₂‐utilizing bacteria (primary producers) that could be a significant source of carbon‐fixation in the ocean, thus broadening possible habitable zones both on Earth and elsewhere where microbial life could exist independent of nutrient input from photosynthesis.