SKIN, AND WOOL-TEXTILE REMAINS FROM HALLSTATT, AUSTRIA

Summary. A study was made of wool cloth remains comprising 56 yarns and of 33 samples of haired animal skin from the Kilbwerk salt-mine site at Hallstatt, Austria dated 6th to 8th century BC. Most of the wool in the cloth was primitive hairy-medium or generalised-medium type and over half the samples had natural coloration, the predominant colour being grey. One yarn was of medium wool type and four were of semi-fine fleece type, neither of these having been previously reported before the Roman period. The skins were much hairier, only one-third having fleece types found in the cloth, and only two of these were of the finer generalised medium variety. Most of the skins with the coarsest hair were probably from goats, and those with less coarse hair from true hairy sheep, a fleece type that is thought to have developed during the Iron Age. The staining reaction of the skin indicated rawhide or oil tanning. The presence of inactive hair follicles within the skin showed that over half had ceased to live during the autumn-winter period.     

Animal Hair in Medieval Ship Caulking Throws Light on Livestock Types

Abstract

Diameter measurements of nearly 200 samples of hair caulking from medieval boat timbers excavated in London threw light on livestock type and husbandry practices. Cattle hair (440/0) with a primitive coat structure predominated in the earlier centuries, while those with a “modern” coat structure predominated later, and these were mostly black. The goat hair (38%) had only one type of coat and the overall mean fibre diameter of the underwool was 13.4 microns compared with 14.7 microns in surviving feral goats. About half the goat hair samples (again from the later centuries) were black and half grey, with only one white animal. There was evidence that death of the cattle and goats had occurred during autumn and/or winter. Sheeps' wool formed 18% of the samples and there were more hairy fleeces than found in medieval clothing. Most of the wool was grey; there were no black samples and only one white one.     

The wools in the Swedish bocksten costume

Wool fibre measurements defining fleece type are described from the cloth in the Bocksten costume dated about 1350 and kept in the Varbergs Museum, Sweden. Over 80% belonged to hairy types, the remainder coming from the modern true medium or primitive generalised medium types. Three quarters of the wools had natural pigment giving a grey colour.The findings accord with the fleece of the native Swedish Landrace sheep, but fibre diameter measurements were closer to those of the 17th century Wasa textiles, than to fleece measurements of the surviving Goth remnant of the Swedish Landrace.     

A re-assessment of bronze age wool

Measurements of twelve new samples of Danish Bronze Age wool showed them to be hairy medium fleeces. Supporting evidence was obtained that a high proportion of fine fibres in a yarn results from the plucking of wool during the moult before the hairy fibres have been released from the skin. The fine fibres were closer in diameter to the underwool of the wild ancestor than to those of the Soay sheep (supposedly a Bronze Age survivor), indicating a more primitive fleece. The samples described include the first white Bronze Age wool. Those with natural pigmentation in every fibre could be black or brown, while those with pigmented and white fibres are thought to be a mixture of brown and white (by analogy with the Soay) rather than grey, which is unknown in the Soay.     

IRON AGE, HAIRED, ANIMAL SKINS FROM HALLSTATT, AUSTRIA

Summary: A study was made of 229 skins bearing hair or wool from bags and clothing in the Iron Age salt mines at Hallstatt; 87% were from livestock and of these 8% were from cattle, 22% from goats and 70% from sheep. of the sheepskins most were of hairy-medium type (61%) or coarser, while all the textiles examined earlier were of this type or finer; 5% were of hairy type, which first appeared in the Iron Age; 32% were Neolithic survivals with a wild-type coat (no fleece) and two-thirds of these had a Mouflon colour pattern, while the remainder had a range of colours. the cattle were brown and two thirds of the goats were black. All livestock had the small size expected of the breeds of the period. the other skins included possibly chamois and ibex as well as dog, and small fur-bearers.     

SHEEPSKIN FROM ANCIENT KERMA, NORTHERN SUDAN

Summary. The material described came from the Ancient Kerma civilisation (c. 2000 B. C.) and comprised 19 haired skin samples from Kerma itself with a further nine from the site of Kadruka. Diameter distributions were determined on hair cut from the skin, and the skin itself was sectioned histologically in a plane parallel to the skin surface.
Most of the samples had a non-fleeced'Hair'type of coat, but three were immensely interesting in suggesting fleeces of hairy medium type, which represents the first indication of the development of a fleece.
The distribution of most of the hair diameters was that of the winter coat suggesting that the animals had been killed during the winter. This was supported by the presence of inactive wool roots within the skin.     

WOOL AT DANEBURY: A SPECULATION USING EVIDENCE FROM ELSEWHERE

The high proportion of sheep bones and the finding of implements used in cloth manufacture have led to suggestions that this Iron Age hill fort in Hampshire was a centre for wool cloth making. In the absence of textile remains from the site, evidence from other Iron Age sites with such remains is used to suggest that the sheep kept at Danebury are likely to have had mainly primitive hairy and primitive woolly fleeces with an annual moult and a range of colours. the absence of shears suggests a more primitive method of harvesting the wool. White wool and dyed textiles from the other sites indicates the possibility of dyeing. A reassessment of the textile implements suggests that the textile activity was no more than domestic production. the weight of the spindle whorls is discussed in relation to the sort of wool spun, but further experimentation is proposed to answer such questions as the true use of the "weaving" combs. the slingshots might have been hurled with a wool sling and not only at a human enemy or at game, but to control sheep flocks.     

Wools from Vindolanda

Wool fibre measurements defining fleece type are described from local cloth remains excavated at Vindolanda, a roman fort at Chesterholm, south of Hadrian's Wall. Most of the fleeces were of the primitive types known as hairy medium and generalized medium, the latter being the fine wool of antiquity.     

Characterising the potential of sheep wool for ancient DNA analyses

The use of wool derived from sheep (Ovis aries) hair shafts is widespread in ancient and historic textiles. Given that hair can represent a valuable source of ancient DNA, wool may represent a valuable genetic archive for studies on the domestication of the sheep. However, both the quality and content of DNA in hair shafts are known to vary, and it is possible that common treatments of wool such as dyeing may negatively impact the DNA. Using quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR), we demonstrate that in general, short fragments of both mitochondrial and single-copy nuclear DNA can be PCR-amplified from wool derived from a variety of breeds, regardless of the body location or natural pigmentation. Furthermore, although DNA can be PCR-amplified from wool dyed with one of four common plant dyes (tansy, woad, madder, weld), the use of mordants such as alum or iron leads to considerable DNA degradation. Lastly, we demonstrate that mtDNA at least can be PCR-amplified, cloned and sequenced from a range of archaeological and historic Danish, Flemmish and Greenlandic wool textile samples. In summary, our data suggest that wool offers a promising source for future ancient mitochondrial DNA studies.     

Salamander's Wool: The Historical Evidence for Textiles Woven with Asbestos Fibre

Abstract

In 1684 Members of the Royal Society of London discussed the nature of a type of woven cloth described as incombustible linen, or salamander's wool. It was an attempt to explain scientifically the phenomenon described in many cultures over more than 1,500 years, of a cloth which could be immersed in fire and emerge, not only unburnt, but even cleansed. Such cloth is known to have been woven using fibres from the mineral asbestos. This paper explores the evidence for the historical use of asbestos fibre in woven textiles before its rediscovery and commercial development for fire protection in the nineteenth century.     

Multiple Microanalyses of a Sample from the Vinland Map

A sample of the Vinland Map remaining from the radiocarbon dating was analysed with the purpose of identifying the post‐1950 contaminant and establishing other evidence on the material composition, identity and condition. The analyses revealed that the parchment originates from a bovid and contains hair remnants. The fibre structure was in poor condition, with fragmented collagen fibres and a low hydrothermal stability. Greenish and reddish particles were observed on the parchment. The greenish particles were identified as basic copper(II) chloride, most probably atacamite, and the reddish particles as rust; that is, various iron(III) oxides. The extracted modern contaminant was identified as being naturally produced glycerol monostearate.     

Wools from textiles in the Wasa, a seventeenth-century Swedish warship

Wool fibre measurements defining fleece type are described from cloth remains found in the seventeenth century wreck of the Wasa in Stockholm harbour. Half the fleeces were from the primitive type known as the hairy medium, and the remainder were distributed over the hairy, generalized medium and medium types, with a few short and fine types. The wools were similar to medieval Swedish wools, being coarser than Viking examples, but finer than the fleeces of living, primitive Swedish Goth breed.     

Investigation of Organic Materials From the ‘Royal’ Burials of Xiongnu (Noin‐Ula,Mongolia) by Srxrf and XAFS Methods

The burials of famous Xiongnu people are a unique source of information about Xiongnu culture, due to the variety of organic findings. SRXRF analysis of hair, clay, bones, teeth and woollen cloth was carried out. An anomalously high copper content was observed in all hair samples, whereas the levels of copper in bone and clay were low. To define the hair morphology and the elemental distribution in the hair cross‐section, high‐resolution X‐ray computed tomography (HRXCT) and energy‐dispersive spectroscopy (EDS) with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) were used. The X‐ray absorption fine‐structure method (XAFS) was applied to determine the local copper environment. The majority of the copper species in the hair and enamel samples are present as Cu²⁺ cations in a distorted octahedral (4 + 2) coordination, surrounded by light ligands (oxygen/nitrogen). A similar distorted octahedral coordination is typical for both inorganic mixed oxide/hydroxide Cu nanosystems and metal–organic Cu complexes (with oxygen/nitrogen).     

Methods for the Study of Ancient Hair: Radiocarbon Dates and Gene Sequences from Individual Hairs

Genetic data from archaeological specimens provides a potent new approach for addressing questions in prehistory. Hair from archaeological sites is an important but overlooked data source amenable to molecular analysis. To date DNA identification from hair is limited to modern samples. Our study is the first to report DNA recovery from a 9800-year-old specimen. We report methods used to extract mitochondrial DNA and obtain accelerator mass spectrometry radiocarbon dates (AMS-¹⁴C) from hairs plucked from a piece of ancient bighorn sheep (Ovis canadensis nelsoni) skin found at Smith Creek Cave, Nevada. The ability to obtain reliable radiocarbon dates and DNA sequences from single ancient hairs opens new possibilities for addressing biological questions in prehistory.     

“So bigge as bigge may be”: tracking size and shape change in domestic livestock in London (AD 1220–1900)

This study presents the analysis of 7966 individual cattle, sheep, pig and domestic hen bone measurements from 105 sites excavated in London dating to the period AD 1220–1900. Multiple episodes of size change are identified, although the speed and timing varies by species. The earliest evidence for size change in cattle and sheep occurs in the early 14th century and may be connected to the need to restock livestock populations following the outbreaks of murrain in the first half of that century. Subsequent size increases in livestock size may have occurred as a combined consequence of agricultural innovations in the wake of the Black Death, the increasing commercialisation of animal farming, as the meat requirements of an expanding London grew, and the rise of the ethic of improvement.     

An Integrated isotopic study of Early Intermediate Period camelid husbandry in the Santa Valley,Perú

ABSTRACT

Stable carbon and nitrogen isotope compositions were determined for camelid bone collagen, hair, and wool (fibre) sampled from textiles from archaeological sites in the Santa Valley (north coast of Perú) occupied during Moche III (El Castillo, A.D. 300?500) and Moche IV (Guadalupito, A.D. 500?700) phases; a small number of camelid bone collagen samples were also analysed from the Late Suchimancillo Phase (A.D. 0?300). These data suggest that localised camelid husbandry was practiced in the Santa Valley from at least the Moche III phase. The nature of camelid husbandry likely involved animals being kept spatially segregated and fed a diverse range of fodder. The isotopic compositions of the bone collagen and wool textiles were very similar, which suggests that the wool that was used to produce the textiles was derived from local camelids rather than being acquired from the highlands. The transition from Moche III to Moche IV, which saw a significant increase in Mochica presence in the Santa Valley, was not accompanied by major changes in camelid husbandry practices. Localised camelid husbandry continued through this transition with minimal change; the prolonged droughts of the sixth century A.D. had no discernable effect on camelid husbandry, probably due to the special hydraulic conditions unique to the Santa Valley.     

The Agency Houses: British Mercantile Enterprise in the Far East c. 1780–1920

Abstract

This article explores the use of flax for fibre in Croatia. It concentrates on traditional flax growing and processing techniques being revived through The Flax Project. Traditional flax varieties utilised in Croatia, together with ongoing research to find the most suitable flax cultivars for the Croatian climate today, are discussed. Locally produced flax was widely used to make folk costumes and household linens. The stages of turning the processed flax fibre into linen cloth are described, including spinning, weaving, decorative techniques, bleaching, dyeing, and pleating through to its aftercare including washing, ironing, storage and related issues of conservation.     

Late Saxon Textiles from the City of London

ARCHAEOLOGICAL EXCAVATIONS in the City of London have produced an important collection of late 9th- to early 12th-century textiles manufactured from wool, goat hair, silk and flax. The production processes associated with the different types of cloth are here described, together with details of weaving techniques and dyeing practices. Changes in the types of cloth used in the nth century are related to the introduction of new technology and the decline in use of the warp-weighted loom. Evidence is examined for the local manufacture of cloth and for the import of foreign silks. Lastly, attention is drawn to the similarity of the London textiles to those found in other regions of northern Europe.     

What goes in does not always come out: The impact of the ruminant digestive system of sheep on plant material,and its importance for the interpretation of dung-derived archaeobotanical assemblages

Abstract

On archaeological sites where livestock dung was a major fuel source, plant material that survives digestion intact may well be preserved in the remnants of dung-fuelled fires. Preserved plant remains which were derived from dung relate to the diet of animals, and thus provide a way of investigating the agro-pastoral economies of the past. In order to improve our understanding of the taphonomic processes to which plant material is exposed to during digestion, we applied archaeobotanical methods to the analysis of dung from sheep fed a known diet of cereal and wild plant material. Two clear patterns emerge from these investigations. First, cereal material (grain or chaff) survives digestion poorly and was rarely found in the dung analysed. Second, large proportions of seeds of various wild species survive digestion in an identifiable form, probably due to their small size and/or protective coating. These findings are crucial for reliable interpretation of dung-derived plant material in archaeological settings.     

Norfolk livestock farming 1250–1740: a comparative study of manorial accounts and probate inventories

This paper examines developments in Norfolk livestock husbandry over a period of five centuries. It breaks new ground by combining evidence from manorial accounts and probate inventories and the methodological difficulties of using the two sources are examined in some detail. Despite these difficulties the evidence of accounts and inventories reveals the continuity of developed and dynamic pastoral farming systems in Norfolk. From an early date the distinctive feature of livestock farming was its close integration with arable farming, producing mixed-farming systems of remarkable productivity. By substituting horses for oxen and cultivating fodder crops, Norfolk farmers succeeded in maximizing the ratio of non-working to working animals, thereby permitting the development of specialized sheep farming, cattle-based dairying, and later, fattening. Sheep farming was transformed from a peasant to a landlord activity and dairying shifted in its spatial focus, gradually giving way to fattening, rendering Norfolk farmers increasingly dependent upon the import of young stock from outside the county. The most difficult comparison between accounts and inventories yields the most remarkable finding: between the fourteenth and the seventeenth centuries stocking densities approximately doubled. This implies significant gains in pastoral output per unit area, reinforcing the view that developments in livestock husbandry may well have been of greater importance in increasing agricultural production than the more heavily studied arable sector.