“Some in Rags and Some in Jags and Some in Silken Gowns”: Textiles from Iceland’s Early Modern Period

The Danish trade monopoly of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries resulted in the implementation of strict regulations and controls on textile production, the introduction of weaving workshops equipped with new horizontal looms, and a deliberate attempt to phase out the production of homespun cloth on the warp-weighted loom. What was the fate of homespun cloth in this era of introduced industrialization in Iceland? Archaeological textile collections from Iceland??s early modern period are abundant though understudied. This paper reports current research on these collections and suggests that homespun cloth did not die out in the late medieval period, but that it continued into the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, declining slowly thereafter. Moreover, homespun cloth of the early modern period evolved into something that was structurally different than its earlier medieval version, possibly in response to increased climatic fluctuations during the Little Ice Age.     

Late Saxon Textiles from the City of London

ARCHAEOLOGICAL EXCAVATIONS in the City of London have produced an important collection of late 9th- to early 12th-century textiles manufactured from wool, goat hair, silk and flax. The production processes associated with the different types of cloth are here described, together with details of weaving techniques and dyeing practices. Changes in the types of cloth used in the nth century are related to the introduction of new technology and the decline in use of the warp-weighted loom. Evidence is examined for the local manufacture of cloth and for the import of foreign silks. Lastly, attention is drawn to the similarity of the London textiles to those found in other regions of northern Europe.     

清代纺织面料——“羽毛纱”的织物结构研究

本文运用现代纺织科学的检测手段,分析了故宫博物院收藏的两件“羽毛纱”样品的组织结构和各项物理指标（织物单位面积质量、织物密度、纱线线密度、纱线捻度和捻度系数）及其织造方法,找到了同样织法的两块织物,存在不同面料风格的真正原因。古人通过巧妙的织造方法,充分发挥纺织原料各自的优点,织造出满足不同穿着目的的面料。     

新疆山普拉墓地出土金线结构形貌与材质特征研究

山普拉墓地出土的珍贵纺织品与新疆其他古墓葬群出土的纺织品一样,是研究世界古代纺织史、丝绸之路物质文化交流的重要标本,承载着人类社会发展极其重要的历史、文化、科技价值。为研究古代纺织品的用金技术,以新疆和田洛浦县山普拉墓地出土金线为研究对象,借助光学显微镜和扫描电镜对金线的形貌进行显微观察,以揭示金线及其芯线的结构特征,获取了金线相关几何尺寸等信息。同时结合能谱仪分析,对金线的成分进行检测,获得了金线合金中各元素的比例。本研究结果可为中国古代纺织品的用金技术研究提供科学依据,并且期冀通过今后逐步积累的大量金线分析数据能够揭示出中国较早时期纺织品用金技术的起源及其发展脉络。     

Mud Silk and the Chinese Laundress: From the South China Silk Industry to Mud Silk Suits in Maine

In 1921, bride Toy Len Goon (1892–1993), a peasant from Guangdong (Canton) South China, emigrated to Portland, Maine, USA where she and her husband ran a suburban laundry. She became a respected member of the community and, in 1952, American ‘Mother of the Year’. This article follows her biography by investigating a group of four recently rediscovered tunic and trouser suits preserved from her trousseau. The suits are made of Guangdong mud silk, a two-colour fabric distinguished by its black upper surface and brown underside. Mud silk is a little recognised, studied or collected South-East Asian textile. By examining mud silk and its manufacture within the context of Guangdong’s rise and decline as a major silk producer and exporter, this article contributes a new perspective to the present limited body of research on this regional textile.     

三星堆遗址二号坑出土部分青铜器表面附着丝绸残留物的发现与研究

四川省文物考古研究院等单位运用超景深显微镜、扫描电子显微镜、显微红外光谱等分析技术,对三星堆遗址二号祭祀坑出土的部分青铜器表面进行了显微观察和检测分析。显微观察结果表明,青铜器表面附着有经纬组织明显的纺织残留物,根据保存状况可以分为纺织实物、炭化物和泥化物;扫描电镜分析结果显示纤维表面光整、截面呈三角形;结合显微红外分析结果,可以确定残留物的原料为蚕丝。实验结果证实了三星堆文化时期丝绸的存在,也探明了丝绸的发现位置,根据赋存状况,推测丝绸与青铜器、金器共同构建了三星堆祭祀文化体系。     

绉丝纱在中国古代纺织品修复中的应用

Crepeline是一种较为薄透的平纹丝织物,在欧美等国的纺织品文物保护中应用较为广泛,尤其对于脆弱丝织品的保护具有非常好的效果。近年来,此种织物在中国纺织品修复中的应用也日渐趋多。由于中国市场上无处购买该材料,为了降低成本并满足中国古代纺织品的修复需求,中国丝绸博物馆与浙江理工大学合作研发了该种修复用织物——绉丝纱。本研究介绍所研发绉丝纱的工艺参数和性能特点,及针对不同类别的中国古代纺织品,采用绉丝纱作为修复材料时的使用方法。即通常将其包覆于纺织品文物表面,以针线缝合的方式固定,并注意缝合时尽量减少针线穿过文物的次数。其包覆的形式,按包覆范围可分为整体包覆与局部包覆;按包覆方式可分为单面包覆、双面包覆及叠加包覆等。研究表明,绉丝纱包覆是一种值得推广的纺织品保护方法,尤其是对已无法承受针线过多穿缝力度的纺织品。如能够解决绉丝纱裁剪后的边缘脱线等细部问题,将会更加扩大其使用的范围。     

乡镇地域多功能性评价与主导功能定位——以金湖县为例

地方乡镇发展正面临着主体功能区规划要求下的功能再定位,客观评价乡镇地域多功能性是科学确定乡镇主导功能的关键。从县域视角,乡镇地域具有农业生产、非农业生产、社会保障、文化传承和生态保护等多种功能,选取表征各功能强弱的"态"指标和反应功能发展变化趋势的"势"指标,构建了县域乡镇地域多功能性评价指标体系以及单项功能位评价模型、多功能综合多维评价模型和主导功能判定的四象限分析模型。以金湖县为例对各乡镇的多功能性进行评价,并基于评价结果确定了各镇的主导功能。     

明代丝织物保存状态的分析研究

考古出土丝绸保存状态的研究对丝绸的科学保护具有重要的指导意义。本工作选取丝纤维中最主要的桑蚕丝及柞蚕丝作参照,以考古出土的明代丝绸为研究对象,通过荧光电子显微镜观察丝绸的纤维结构形貌、傅立叶变换红外光谱仪分析化学结构,结合X-射线衍射仪分析结晶度,用薄层色谱分析丝绸中氨基酸的组成,并进一步用紫外-可见光分光光度法分析丝绸中酪氨酸含量等方法,对一件出土的明代丝绸织物的保存状态进行了科学分析研究。分析结果表明,明代丝绸为桑蚕丝,纤维丝松散且断裂较多,结晶度下降,多数氨基酸含量明显降低,只检测到甘氨酸、丙氨酸、丝氨酸、酪氨酸与谷氨酸。酪氨酸含量为13.78%,比参照桑蚕丝含量低。     

New evidence for jute (<Emphasis Type="Italic">Corchorus capsularis</Emphasis> L.) in the Indus civilization

In this paper, we report the results of an analysis of a preserved structure of jute on a ceramic artifact from the site of Harappa that is dated to 2200–1900 (cal.) BC (Fig. 1). Jute cloth has not previously been identified at this early date in the Indus civilization. Since fiber remains are rare in prehistoric South Asia, we briefly review the evidence for seed and fiber remains used in textile production in this region.     

WOOL AT DANEBURY: A SPECULATION USING EVIDENCE FROM ELSEWHERE

The high proportion of sheep bones and the finding of implements used in cloth manufacture have led to suggestions that this Iron Age hill fort in Hampshire was a centre for wool cloth making. In the absence of textile remains from the site, evidence from other Iron Age sites with such remains is used to suggest that the sheep kept at Danebury are likely to have had mainly primitive hairy and primitive woolly fleeces with an annual moult and a range of colours. the absence of shears suggests a more primitive method of harvesting the wool. White wool and dyed textiles from the other sites indicates the possibility of dyeing. A reassessment of the textile implements suggests that the textile activity was no more than domestic production. the weight of the spindle whorls is discussed in relation to the sort of wool spun, but further experimentation is proposed to answer such questions as the true use of the "weaving" combs. the slingshots might have been hurled with a wool sling and not only at a human enemy or at game, but to control sheep flocks.     

MICRODENTICULATES OF THE FUNNEL BEAKER CULTURE: LITHIC ATTRIBUTE ANALYSIS,USE‐WEAR ANALYSIS,AND CONTEXTUAL ANALYSIS

In a study published in 1994, Helle Juel Jensen observed that microdenticulates are tools whose function is difficult to assess. She calls the use of the tools “an unresolved functional puzzle”. This study proceeds from that conclusion. Based on attribute and use‐wear analyses together with contextual studies the results show that microdenticulates are complex tools, in which other parts of the flake besides the denticulated edge were used. The result also show that other flint objects from the flint asemblage were used for the same operations as the microdenticulates. The work comprised a conceptual action in which the production, use, and deposition of the material were all parts of the same process. The task was given in advance. The work probably consisted of preparing or treating plant fibres in some way in order to make thread, rope, bast, or the like. The result shows that seemingly simple tools like microdenticulates were a part of the materiality of the south Scandinavian Funnel Beaker complex. The work conducted using the microdenticultates and the tool box associated with them was associated with concepts shared by people over large areas (present day south Sweden and Denmark) over hundreds of years (from Early Neolithic to Middle Neolithic AI).     

Silo or Vat? Observations on the Ancient Textile Industry in Malta and Early Phoenician Interests in the Island

This paper concerns the Bronze Age/Phoenician contact period, focusing on a cache of pottery from Mtarfa, Malta, excavated by Ward Perkins in 1939, and the evidence of coastal and other pits, possibly used in the process of dyeing textile. Dyed fabric, it is argued, may have been the reason for Phoenician contact with the island prior to colonization. Murex shells and other possible dye sources within Malta are discussed.     

居延遗址T129烽燧出土纺织品分析

居延遗址与汉代丝绸之路兴盛密切相关,是历代丝绸之路开拓与畅通的重要历史见证。在人迹罕至的居延遗址T129烽燧附近的地面发现了纺织品残片,伴随发现的有汉代木简和五铢钱。为了了解织物成分和编织工艺,进行了相关的科学分析。使用红外光谱分析确定了纺织材料为丝,通过视频显微镜和扫描电镜观察,确定纺织品采用平纹织法,未经染色,根据织做工艺可定名为汉代常见的绡。该纺织品可作为汉代戍边士卒衣装的标本之一,对于研究汉代西北地区的丝绸之路物质交流和文化传播具有一定的意义。     

三组明清织物装饰捻金线的技术分析与比较研究

为了对比分析不同金属线的形貌、材质和工艺差异,理解不同时代金属线差异产生的原因,利用显微形貌观察与科学仪器分析对三组明清纺织品捻金线样品的金属箔条、有机质背层、芯线进行了形貌观察分析。对比了三组捻金线的形貌、结构、尺寸和材质特征,对其制作工艺进行了对比分析,得出了三组捻金线的质量优劣等次,发现了金属线的选用与被装饰织物的时代、功用性质和文化属性之间存在一定关系的现象。含金量高的金属箔条、蚕丝芯线、尺寸纤细、制作精细的捻金线属于高等次的捻金线,常用于等级高、文化属性及功用重要的纺织品文物装饰,其中不带背层的金属线等级又高于带有背层的金属线。本研究对开展金属线系统分析和金属线对比研究具有较高的参考价值。     

Mazamet and the Skin Wool Trade 1850–1913

Abstract

In 1955, northern Nigerian government officials, working together with the British textile firm, David Whitehead &; Sons, successfully began arrangements to build the first large textile manufacturing mill in Nigeria, Kaduna Textiles Ltd (KTL), which began production in 1957. In the following decade, several textile mills opened in Kaduna, northern Nigeria, including Arewa Textiles, United Nigerian Textiles Ltd (UNTL) and Nortex among others. Textile production, spinning and dyeing operations expanded in Kaduna during the oil boom years of the 1970s. Yet by 1997, KTL, Arewa Textiles and UNTL were barely functioning, operating with obsolete equipment, without capital to obtain spare parts and without a regular source of electricity. By 2007, all three mills had closed. In this paper, we examine the growth and the reasons for the subsequent decline of textile manufacturing in Kaduna. We argue that the industry’s decline reflected both internal problems — such as frequent changes in political leadership, which contributed to abrupt shifts in industrial policy and a failure to maintain power infrastructure — and external factors — such as the implementation of a structural adjustment programme in 1986 that deregulated the currency and made imports of spare parts and modern weaving equipment prohibitively expensive. In addition, changes in international textile trade agreements and the liberalisation of Nigerian-Chinese trade after 2010 have undermined present efforts at revitalising local textile manufacturing. The paper concludes with an assessment of efforts in the first decade of the twenty-first century to reopen these Kaduna textile firms.     

唐代宝花狮纹锦织物的特点和复制

通过分析唐代宝花狮纹锦各项参数,确定它须由大花偻束综提花机制织,据此复原出这项织造技术．并成功复制出宝花狮纹锦。从而可以推断,随着丝绸之路的畅通,唐代中西方商品、文化、技术交流紧密,大花楼束综提花技术已经开始应用,以此为基础．丝绸品种从以前的经锦过渡剑纬锦,织物图案的艺术表现力得以增强．提花织机的生产效率也得到提高。     

成都老官山汉墓出土织机复原研究

成都老官山汉墓出土了四台多综织机模型,提供了古代多综织机的实物证据。它们都采用一样的移动齿梁选综机构,提综机机构却有不同,一台织机用一个旋转踏板提升滑框,滑框再提升多片纹综。另外三台方法相同,用一个旋转踏板提升连杆,连杆再提升多片纹综。通过出土文物的实物对照,分析选综机构和提综机构的机械原理,比较两种提综机构的性能优劣,从而推断滑框式织机可以织造经向纹样循环大的经锦,但操作较费力;曲柄连杆式织机织造的经锦纹样循环虽小,但操作省力。分析过程同时也展示了古人杰出的智慧和创造力。     

《中华赤色邮政湘赣省总局》丝绸局牌的复制

根据对国家一级革命物的考证,确定它为手工束综提花机织成的提花丝织绫,从采集到的原始数据,结合传统的纺织工艺技术资料,设计复原织造手段及相关工艺,复制出物基体坯绸。按物做旧如旧的原则,先进行织物的老化处理,再做旧,使复制物尽量与原物相一致。     

古代纺织品的世界——来自于古代绘画及雕塑品上的彩绘装饰

在众多的遗物中,真正的纺织品在不同范围被保存并且作为考古出土文物被保护。在埃及,中亚和欧洲（北方）地区,由于这些地方有利于有机物的保存因此可以非常频繁发现纺织品。古代（石质）雕塑如希腊瓶饰画或亚洲陶质雕塑都详细的描绘着衣物,往往辅以详细削减和图案表现。与此相比,比较少见的是古代雕塑彩绘装饰上手绘图案或装饰仍然可以认出或保存完好。被保护的纺织技术作为另一种技术用于制作纺织品,将被介绍并与古代以往的绘画和彩绘装饰保护实例作比较。图案与技术的表现将会用于说明并与真正的纺织品发现物的图案与技术作比较,同时与纺织技术的重建相结合。发现物的样品来自于欧洲,地中海东部和中东。这将表明从古代遗物的绘画上区分独立的纺织技术,并且图案也可以用于证实真正的纺织生产工艺的结论。