Fashion,the Politics of Style and National Identity in Pre–Fascist and Fascist Italy

The essay offers an analysis of fashion and its bearing on the construction of national identity and politics of style during fascism in Italy. No recent work on fascism has analysed the role of fashion in the complex and contradictory phases of the cultural politics of Mussolini’s regime. The essay aims to illustrate the two sides of fashion and their relevance to the period in question. It shows, on the one hand, how the regime used fashion to discipline the social body, especially women’s, and to create a national style recognisable as such; and, on the other, how fashion is also an individual act through which was expressed the creativity both of the people working in the fashion industry and of ordinary people who used fashion and style to demonstrate their non–conformity with the diktats of the regime. Pointing out that it was as a result of the debate on nationalism of the pre–fascist liberal period that premises for fascist policy were set, the essay argues that the history of fascist fashion policy is one of continuities rather than ruptures.     

The Fashion Industry in Galicia: Understanding the 'Zara' Phenomenon

Galicia is traditionally one of the weaker regional economies in Spain. However it is home to one of the most successful global marketing phenomena of the age. Zara, the mid-market fashion arm of the Galician INDITEX Group, is amongst the 'culprits' that have been blamed for the demise from high street hegemony of such European retail notables as C&A, Littlewoods and Marks & Spencer. In this paper an analysis is provided of the mechanisms by which this peripheral region has succeeded in producing, from virtually nothing, a globally outstanding retail fashion industry in one of the world's most cutthroat competitive industries. It is shown that regional, national and supra-national factors have had important parts to play, but that the Galician approach is nevertheless unique, compared to that of other fashion clothing regions. Among the special features at play are high levels of tacit and codified knowledge exploitation, integrated design, production and retailing and advanced retail feedback technology that enables anticipation of customer preference.     

近代广东侨乡生活方式与社会风俗的变化——以潮汕和五邑为例

近代广东侨乡社会受海外华侨华人的影响,其社会生活方式与风俗文化都发生了较为深刻的变化.首先,在衣食住行等方面出现了渐趋"洋化"的生活方式;其次,在风俗文化上出现了传统习俗基础上结合"出洋"的怪异习俗;最后,在社会风气上,一方面出现了奢靡腐化的现象,另一方面新的文明之风突起.本文以潮汕、五邑为例,探讨海外华侨华人对近代广东侨乡生活方式与社会风俗的影响.     

Fashion,Commerce and Technology in the Nineteenth Century: The Shawl Trade

Abstract

The way that the identifiable print sources used as patterns for the total of 170 emblems in the borders of the Four Seasons tapestries at Hatfield House are handled can tell us something not only about the meaning of the emblems in their new medium and setting but also about their weaving process. Changes to the Latin mottoes and to pictorial detail are shown to be purely pragmatic in some cases but clearly motivated in others, whilst both are influenced not only by the received iconology but also by the art of rhetoric as taught in the Elizabethan schoolroom. These changes are highly likely to have been decided on by the patron who commissioned them, Sir John Tracy.     

Fashion Curating: Critical Practice in the Museum and Beyond

Abstract

The commercial value of a quantity of yarn depends on two things, the length and the fineness. This article describes how practical methods of measuring these quantities led to systems of units that were noteworthy mainly for their profusion and complexity. The story covers the period from 1600 to the present day, and examples from the woollen, linen, and cotton trades are given. Progress towards standardization, both nationally and internationally, was slow. Even when opportunities for simplification arose, the trades were reluctant to abandon their customary measures in favour of ones that would have been simpler to use and understand.     

European Fashion: The Creation of a Global Industry

Abstract

This article raises questions about the homogeneity of couture production during the inter-war years through examination of a group of garments that bear the label of the relatively unknown couturière Louiseboulanger, active 1924–c.1940. The main focus is an evening dress belonging to Hampshire County Council Museums and Archive Service, UK (C.1976.31.415).     

中国的奇迹与麦迪森风格

今年是中国改革开放30周年。30年间,华夏大地演绎了一场人类历史上波澜壮阔的伟大变迁,中华民族用30年的时间走过了其他国家或地区几百年的路程,这种发展被全世界称之为中国的奇迹。30年来,随着中国经济以令人难以想像的速度持续增长时,全球越来越多