三星堆遗址二号坑出土部分青铜器表面附着丝绸残留物的发现与研究

四川省文物考古研究院等单位运用超景深显微镜、扫描电子显微镜、显微红外光谱等分析技术,对三星堆遗址二号祭祀坑出土的部分青铜器表面进行了显微观察和检测分析。显微观察结果表明,青铜器表面附着有经纬组织明显的纺织残留物,根据保存状况可以分为纺织实物、炭化物和泥化物;扫描电镜分析结果显示纤维表面光整、截面呈三角形;结合显微红外分析结果,可以确定残留物的原料为蚕丝。实验结果证实了三星堆文化时期丝绸的存在,也探明了丝绸的发现位置,根据赋存状况,推测丝绸与青铜器、金器共同构建了三星堆祭祀文化体系。     

西汉早期出土金缕和丝缕玉衣部分玉料材质及其加工工艺特征管窥

广州西汉南越王墓和徐州狮子山汉墓是我国汉代最重要和出土玉器数量最多的两个王侯级墓地,两墓出土的丝缕和金缕玉衣是当时南方和中原汉王朝最重要的墓葬玉器之一。通过上手观察、显微镜拍照并利用环境扫描电镜和漫反射红外光谱、拉曼光谱技术对广州南越王墓及徐州狮子山汉墓出土玉衣部分玉片的质材和加工工艺进行了观察测试和对比分析。结果显示,两地玉衣的玉料均主要为透闪石质,从现存玉衣颜色及玉质结构上看,徐州狮子山汉墓出土玉衣玉料来源单一且玉质明显好于南越王墓,南越王墓玉料具有多来源的特征,玉衣中的“假玉”可能来自粤西。从南越王墓玉衣片部分切割痕迹判断,南越王墓所使用的切割工具可能接近当时的最高水平,也可能存在中原交换来源的玉材,无法排除南越王墓玉衣全部或部分在当地制作的可能;南越王墓和徐州狮子山汉墓出土玉衣加工工艺特征明显不同,显示两地玉衣系由不同 “玉作”体系加工完成,汉代可能存在多个不同的玉作体系,工艺水平参差不齐。     

张家川马家塬战国墓地M21墓葬中铁器表面纺织残留物的鉴定

马家塬战国墓地是研究西戎文化以及秦戎文化交流的重要考古遗址。在M21墓葬发现了一些附着于铁器表面的矿化纺织品残片。这些矿物外壳保留了比较完整的纺织品形态,是研究早期纺织技术的宝贵资料。为此,本研究采用扫描电子显微镜(SEM)和高效液相色谱-质谱联用技术(HPLC-MS)对矿物纺织品残片的纤维原料进行了鉴定与分析:1)矿物外壳内部的纤维空洞结构形态与桑蚕丝的纤维形态特征相同;2)样品中检出了3组蚕丝蛋白的特征多肽片段。研究结果表明,M21墓葬中的纺织品残片的原料为蚕丝纤维(Bombyx mori)。丝绸的发现表明中原的丝绸成品或者纤维原料已经进入西戎地区,西戎与中原文明的交流更加密切。使用丝绸包裹铁器则表明西戎文化已经受到了一些中原风俗的影响。这一发现填补了马家塬遗址中纺织品研究的空白,不仅为研究秦戎地区的织造工艺和文化交流提供了重要资料,也为矿化纺织遗存中的桑蚕丝残留的鉴定提供了技术支持。     

试论五至六世纪拜占庭的丝绸贸易与丝织业

为了控制丝绸贸易和保证丝织业生产,5—6世纪的拜占庭国家垄断了生丝交易。由于拜占庭的桑树种植地主要处于容易受波斯进攻的叙利亚和小亚细亚山区,正常的种桑活动往往得不到保障,因此拜占庭所需生丝仍然依赖进口。为了获得较为廉价的生丝,拜占庭利用国家权力对丝绸贸易和丝绸价格实行了严格的控制,并建立了一支身份世袭的织工队伍。拜占庭的丝织业采取集约化的生产方式,形成了集种桑、养蚕、纺纱、染色、绘图等一系列完整流程为一体的生产体系。丝绸贸易在拜占庭经济结构中虽然不占主导地位,但紫色丝绸却是拜占庭国家中央集权和社会等级制度在经济和社会生活中的反映。     

The Macclesfield Silk Button Industry: The Probate Evidence

Abstract

Most histories of the silk industry in England begin with the arrival of French refugees to Spitalfields in London, yet silk was prepared for embroidery in Macclesfield by the Middle Ages and the silk button trade was well-established by the early modern period. Through the study of probate evidence, this article aims to redress the imbalance in the historiography of the silk industry in England away from the focus on the activities of the Huguenots in the early modern period, and away from the silk weaving in order to show that the silk button industry succeeded not through technical innovation, but through marketing a luxury item in sufficiently small packages to make it accessible to a wide portion of the population. The silk button industry can be viewed as having laid the foundations in east Cheshire for the transformation of the silk industry into weaving cloth in the mid-eighteenth century.     

“丝绸西销导致罗马帝国经济衰落说”源流辨析

中国丝绸西销导致罗马帝国经济衰落说是学界较为流行的一种观点。梳理这一观点的源流、脉络,分析这一观点所依赖的基础,是探究的重点。研究的最后结论是:进入罗马的中国丝绸不但数量少,而且对帝国经济的影响非常有限,根本无法撼动罗马帝国的根基。     

Marketing Fabrics and Femininity in Interwar France

Abstract

This article examines discourse about the gender of garments and dress fabrics in the French fashion media, using Roland Barthes's 'informal semiotics' of modern consumption, and particularly his notion of the fashion magazine as a 'machine' articulating the meaning of fashion, including the gender implications of fashion and fabrics. The article also tracks the response of French couturiers and textile manufacturers to anxieties about gender ambiguities in ladieswear between the two world wars. The first part analyzes coverage of chemise dresses and ladies' suits in 13 illustrated magazines: four fashion magazines, three fashion supplements, three trade magazines and three society magazines. The second part of the article explores the attitudes of textile manufacturers' associations, of prominent woollen and silk producers, and of their marketing campaigns, to more androgynous styles using the same sources, professional bulletins, and the minutes of the Silk Manufacturers Syndicate (Chambre Syndicale des Fabricants de Soieries).     

16至19世纪前期中日贸易商品结构的变化——以生丝、丝绸贸易为中心

16至19世纪前期的中国对日丝、绸贸易,前后经历了由盛转衰的过程。究其原因,实不能单从输出的中国一方去找,而还应从输入一方的日本去找,其根本原因则在于随着日本蚕丝生产兴起和丝织生产的发展日方对华丝、绸需求的减少。输日华丝的由盛转衰,实质上反映了中日丝绸生产特别是生丝生产能力的前后变化,反映了日本随着生丝生产的发展逐渐减低了对华丝的依赖程度。到19、20世纪之交,中日丝绸生产的格局变化更加清晰地显示出来。     

古代丝织品的丝素蛋白加固保护

目前采用一般的物理加固和化学加固方法对脆弱丝织品进行保护存在着一定的缺陷和限制,为此,本工作利用与丝织品具有同源性和亲和性的丝素蛋白对清代丝织品进行加固保护。清代丝织品在丝素蛋白浓度为1.0%、戊二醛浓度为0.005%、浸渍时间(T1)为40min、浸渍时间(T2)为60min的较优工艺条件下,断裂强力从5.22N提高到10.68N,断裂伸长率从3.24%提高到4.12%,硬挺度略有改变,提高了0.08×10-2mN.m。同时,利用FT-IR、TG和SEM等对加固前后清代丝织品的结构进行了表征。实验结果显示,利用丝素蛋白加固丝织品文物是一种有效的方法,在提高古代丝织品强度的同时,不对丝织品的外观与手感造成影响。     

Field Methods for the Analysis of Mud Brick Architecture

Recent research into mud brick architecture have established that the simple mud brick is a potential source of cultural information and can provide information about chronology, technology, identity, labor, resources, and environmental conditions. Some analytical techniques for the analysis of sun-dried mud bricks are dependent on the exportation of archaeological samples to foreign laboratories. Some countries severely restrict (or prohibit) the export or removal of archaeological materials making it essential to conduct analysis while in the field. This paper demonstrates the successful use of in-field procedures using a range of portable equipment to quantify basic mud brick characteristics, including particle size distribution through wet sieving, RGB color, magnetic susceptibility, and acid digestion to quantify calcium carbonate. Field and laboratory methods were compared on a single data set, specifically the assemblage from the Neolithic Anatolian site of Çatalhöyük. The results confirmed the accuracy of these methods and provide effective field techniques for mud brick analysis. This article provides an overview of recent research highlighting the importance of mud brick studies and provides procedures for in-field analysis of materials.     

意大利文物保护修复方法在承德皇家丝织品文物中的应用

为了更好地对纺织品文物进行保护修复,在系统学习布兰迪现代修复理论的基础上,尝试运用意大利的纺织品文物保护方法和技术对承德市外八庙管理处的一件黄绸花袈裟进行保护和修复.历经除尘、清洗、干燥、染色和加固等处理过程,着重介绍用意大利方法对白色丝绸和白色丝线进行染色.经过保护修复后袈裟上的灰尘、污渍等病害基本得到清除,损坏部分得到了加固,针线缝合法保证了修复的可再处理性.     

清代的官营丝织业

官营丝织业在整个清代丝织业中占有重要和特殊的地位,它代表着清代丝织业发展的最高水平。本文着重考察其组织机构、沿革、规模、产品种类和经营方式等,力求对清代的官营丝织业有一个较全面系统的梳理和认识。     

Seeking and Managing Wealth: Advice from a Guangdong Mother in Late Qing and Early Republican China

This article traces the life of Qu Fengzhu (1860–1927), a native of Panyu, Guangdong, with special focus on her Zhijia yaoyi (Basic principles of household management). Whereas many women from elite families in late imperial China emphasized the importance of their sons studying hard in order to secure a place in the government or to live with dignity, Qu Fengzhu focused on seeking and managing wealth properly to sustain the family finances. Living in the greater Canton area loaded with heavy commercial activities and East-West interaction opportunities, as well as witnessing the political and social transition from the imperial era to the republican era, Qu Fengzhu gave very pragmatic advice to her offspring without elaborating much on high-sounding truths and principles. She set four rules for her children to follow and emphasized the importance of diligence and frugality. In a flourishing commercial world, the relatively conservative arguments on wealth management contained in Zhijia yaoyi somehow incorporates moral education. This makes its author’s words carry weight and significance.     

丝绸表面光老化实验研究

为使可见光区分波段的纺织品老化实验能够进行,研制了一种纺织品分波段光老化实验仪器,并使用该仪器进行了丝绸的可见光区分波段光老化实验,得到一批实验数据。通过对六组未染色的丝绸进行光老化实验数据进行的分析,发现了在可见光区段中,存在几个光老化比较弱的波段,并且找到了丝绸表面光老化现象与受照射光强、波长和照射时间影响的规律。对丝绸表面光老化的情况与光照时的环境温度和湿度之间的关系有了初步的认识,实验结果可为今后纺织类博物馆展览光源的制造和选择提供参考。     

Chatsworth Street Cutting,Part of the Original Terminus of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway

Abstract

Recent surveys of textile mills in Yorkshire, Greater Manchester and East Cheshire have laid the groundwork for future study in their respective areas. All three have necessarily referred back to precedents set in eighteenth century Derbyshire, where water power was first successfully applied to the manufacture of both silk and cotton. Derbyshire retains an important group of early cotton mills, most of them distributed along the River Derwent and its tributaries. Recent measured surveys of five of the most significant early mills and of a number of related sites by RCHME's Threatened Buildings Sections, supplemented by photographic coverage of further sites over many years, have provided a core of information on which the present article is largely based. The article concentrates on the surviving physical remains of the cotton industry, but draws also on documentary and other evidence for vanished structures.     

试论子弹库楚帛书群中月名与楚历的相关问题

本文对“楚帛书”(包含第二帛书和残帛书)上有关月名与历法问题的文字和图像进行了基础性研究,认为子弹库楚帛书群中可以看到边文月、十三行月和楚月名三种月名,并尝试就其对应关系与历法作了再验证。我们还以五行说为指标,通过对“日书”以及“卜筮祭祷简”进行比较,指出楚帛书群的年代可能接近九店楚简“日书”。同时就子弹库楚帛书群的史料性质以及定位及今后的课题研究简单地作了展望。     

In Loving Memory of Mary Belshaw,May McRidge,and the Nyungar People of the Badjaling Mission, 1930–1954

Using examples from his family and religious history, Patrick O’Farrell analysed the transition from Irish emigrant to assimilated colonial in what was perceived as vacant land. Like O’Farrell, this article will also use family history to address the issues of memory, religion, and assimilation. The Irish weaver Mary Belshaw (1879–1960) came to Australia in 1913 and was instrumental in the emigration of her family to Australia during the 1920s. She worked as a Protestant missionary among Aboriginal Australians from 1915, until her retirement in 1953. Although the grave she shares with her co‐worker May McRidge (1882–1943) bears the words “Ever remembered by what she has done,” her story was largely forgotten by her family. In 1986, the Nyungar people erected a memorial stone to Belshaw and McRidge and the thirty‐nine Nyungar families who lived at the Badjaling Mission in Western Australia from 1930 to 1954. This article will address the wider issues in twentieth‐century Australia which contributed to the neglect of the story by Belshaw's Irish Australian family and then led to its recovery. It will reveal how an Irish heritage was rediscovered because the story lived within a Nyungar community who had survived terra nullius and assimilation policies to return to their land at Badjaling.     

新型防腐防霉剂在纺织品防腐中的应用（Ⅱ）

试验了新型防腐防霉剂霉敌在棉、毛、丝、麻4类纺织品防霉中的应用。上述4类织品2年老化后测定结果表明,霉敌具有良好的防霉能力,防霉样品的拉伸强力和撕裂强力比对照样品均有提高,且织品颜色未发生改变。     

绉丝纱在中国古代纺织品修复中的应用

Crepeline是一种较为薄透的平纹丝织物,在欧美等国的纺织品文物保护中应用较为广泛,尤其对于脆弱丝织品的保护具有非常好的效果。近年来,此种织物在中国纺织品修复中的应用也日渐趋多。由于中国市场上无处购买该材料,为了降低成本并满足中国古代纺织品的修复需求,中国丝绸博物馆与浙江理工大学合作研发了该种修复用织物——绉丝纱。本研究介绍所研发绉丝纱的工艺参数和性能特点,及针对不同类别的中国古代纺织品,采用绉丝纱作为修复材料时的使用方法。即通常将其包覆于纺织品文物表面,以针线缝合的方式固定,并注意缝合时尽量减少针线穿过文物的次数。其包覆的形式,按包覆范围可分为整体包覆与局部包覆;按包覆方式可分为单面包覆、双面包覆及叠加包覆等。研究表明,绉丝纱包覆是一种值得推广的纺织品保护方法,尤其是对已无法承受针线过多穿缝力度的纺织品。如能够解决绉丝纱裁剪后的边缘脱线等细部问题,将会更加扩大其使用的范围。     

Chinese Silk in Tibetan Buddhism Monastery

Chinese traditional silk has held a special place in Chinese tex-tile history as its great contribution to the development of economy and culture of all ethnic groups as well as international exchanges.From time immemorial,