意义、权力与再物质化:食物消费地理新进展

食物是人地关系的天然纽带。自伯克利学派开始关注食品消费研究起,食物研究在国外已属发展较成熟的领域,食物消费研究更是新近地理学关注的热点之一,与家庭研究、性别地理研究关联密切。食物消费主流研究很大部分关涉意义诠释和文化建构,包括文化和身份认同、意义空间塑造、味道与边界、旅游体验、地方指向等命题。食物消费研究也正在经历和吸收一些变化中的研究思潮,特别是警惕过度的"文化转向",重视有关政治地理和再物质化/物质地理的理论主张等。这种研究取向的变化及多元化趋势,作为新文化地理研究的一个缩影,正逐渐对国内食物消费地理研究产生影响。     

国外旅游者饮食消费研究述评

旅游者饮食消费作为一种基本的旅游活动之一,是国外旅游研究中重点关注的领域,并形成相当丰富的研究成果。文章在对国外有关旅游者饮食消费的文献进行梳理整理的基础上,从旅游者饮食消费与旅游目的地、旅游者饮食消费的影响因素、旅游者饮食体验三个方面对国外的研究进行回顾,并在旅游者饮食消费体验的分析与回顾的基础上提出旅游者的自我矛盾的理论模型;文章最后从三个方面对国内的未来研究提出展望,第一,强调旅游研究中的非视觉景观与体验;第二,关注全球化背景下旅游目的地饮食的生产与消费;第三,探讨旅游者饮食消费背后的社会文化含义。     

Urban Food Systems and the Poor in Developing Countries

In many cities in developing countries, hunger and malnutrition are common amongst the poor, even when food is relatively abundant. Over the past two decades, a considerable literature has accumulated on the problems associated with rapid urbanization in developing countries – a literature that for the most part has neglected the important dimension of urban food systems and how these link production and consumption networks at local, regional and global levels. Similarly, whilst there is a newly burgeoning literature on global food systems, the contextual role of the urbanization process is rarely addressed. This paper attempts to fuse these two major areas of geographical investigation to highlight the issues that need to be addressed in future research programmes so that improved diets become accessible to all urban dwellers.     

Quality turns in Nordic food: a comparative analysis of specialty food in Denmark,Norway and Sweden

ABSTRACT

This article compares the development of specialty food in Denmark, Norway and Sweden using a number of quantitative indicators as well as a qualitative analysis of government policy. The analysis shows that specialty food has increased in importance in all three countries over the last twenty years, but there are important differences in the kind of specialty food that has developed and the nature of government intervention and governance structures. Overall, Sweden appears to have the largest production of specialty food and drink and is particularly strong in organic production and consumption, farm processing and farm shops. Norway has a large number of products with protected origin and also leads in the number of farmers’ markets. Denmark lags behind the other countries on most indicators, but has witnessed the fastest growth in microbreweries over the last five years. Theoretically, the article challenges the ‘negative’ definition of specialty food as ‘non-industrial’ or ‘alternative’, and suggests a more nuanced approach. Empirically, it points towards the possible existence of a ‘Scandinavian model’ of specialty food governance with extensive interaction between central government, local government and private firms to stimulate the growth of specialty food.     

广州居民在外饮食消费行为的时空间特征研究

行为地理学与时间地理学的研究思路和方法对在外饮食消费行为进行研究提供了理论指导。文章在对广州居民在外饮食消费行为进行问卷调查的基础上,从饮食消费频率、时段分布和消费持续时长三方面分析了广州居民在外饮食消费行为的时间特征;在饮食消费行为的空间分布上,提出了不同类型饮食消费行为的圈层分布图和高低档次饮食消费行为的空间带状图。最后进一步分析了与居民属性相关的饮食消费行为的时空间特征。     

Gender and food security in Bangladesh: the impact of climate change

Food security remains a critical global issue, made more difficult because of the rising world population, climate challenges affecting food production and a focus on market-based solutions that undermine subsistence production in vulnerable rural areas. Particularly affected are countries across Asia where poverty, hunger and malnourishment affect a significant proportion of the population. Drawing on Sen’s entitlement theory, we argue that a shift in focus from national food production to intra-household food access enables a critical reflection on consumption smoothing strategies adopted at this level. In particular, we draw attention to the tendency for women and girls to eat less as an intra-household adaptation strategy. We present findings from our research in rural areas of Bangladesh and note that adaptation strategies adopted by households in response to food insecurity. We note that strategies designed to address food insecurity must include gender mainstreaming to ensure that women and girls are not taking a disproportionate responsibility for intra-household food security.     

Ground cereal food preparations from Greece: the prehistory and modern survival of traditional Mediterranean ‘fast foods’

Archaeobotanical remains of ground cereals from prehistoric northern Greece are discussed in this paper within the context of ethnographic and textual evidence for similar food preparations encountered in countries of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The archaeobotanical remains consist of ground einkorn and barley grain, stored in this form, from the sites of Mesimeriani Toumba and Archondiko respectively, located in the region of central Macedonia, northern Greece. The results of published pilot studies involving macroscopic, experimental, and scanning electron microscopic examination of these archaeological finds seem to suggest that these products correspond to preprocessed cereals, stored in this form. It is also likely that some at least of these finds were produced from boiled and subsequently ground cereal grains. This practice identified in the prehistoric material is similar to various forms of processing cereals still widely encountered in rural areas of modern Greece and other circum-Mediterranean countries. These products are known in Greece under the names of pligouri (bulgur) and trachanas. Through a combined examination of archaeobotanical, ethnographic, and textual evidence it is argued that the idea of pre-processing cereals for piecemeal consumption throughout the year is of considerable antiquity in this part of the world. Drawing information from food science research on similar, modern traditional preparations of the same geographical region, the paper highlights the advantages of pre-processing cereals for later consumption, which offers insights into likely prehistoric subsistence practices. Parboiling cereal grains or mixing grains with milk products in the summer would have made excellent use of seasonally available ingredients by converting them into nutritious and storable foodstuffs, which could then be consumed as part of daily meals with very little additional cooking effort and fuel. This ease of conversion into a filling meal may justify us considering them as ‘traditional fast foods’.     

Food Deserts: Towards the Development of a Classification

Many people in developed countries fail to consume a healthy diet. This phenomenon has been linked to the contested existence of ‘food deserts’ in the UK, and the occurrence of ‘food insecurity’ in the USA and elsewhere. ‘Food deserts’ remain contested theoretical territory at least partly because no firm definition has been proposed. This paper argues that the barriers to consumption of a healthy diet may be classified according to whether such barriers are financial, physical, or derive from the mental attitude and knowledge of the consumer. The perception of ‘unsupportive food environments’ by some consumers is contrasted with the geographical existence of multiple sources of fresh fruit and vegetables in certain locations. Using a total of 234 semi—structured interviews in various UK locations, qualitative evidence is gathered for the existence of at least ten different types of ‘food desert’. The paper then goes on to show how such a three fold classification may be developed, using a modified ternary diagram, to assess the most appropriate initiatives to tackle ‘food deserts’ and to monitor progress in alleviating their effects.     

改革开放以后北京城镇居民食品消费生活的变化

改革开放以后的20年,北京城镇居民的食品消费生活经历了从勉强温饱到温饱再到小康状态的转变。在前一阶段,居民主要是追求吃的数量的扩充,主要特点是实现了从以“主食”消费为主向以“副食”消费为主的转化;在后一阶段,居民开始追求吃的质量的提高,营养、新鲜、方便、快捷的食品受到普遍欢迎。北京城镇居民食品消费生活的这种变化在某种程度上是中国居民生活水平普遍提高的反映,而中国绝大多数人的生活能够不断地得到改善,这一看似简单的现象正是中国渐进的社会主义改革不断取得成功的社会基础。     

Food, feed, fuel: transforming the competition for grains

Critical changes are underway in the domain of grain utilization. With the large‐scale diversion of corn for the manufacture of ethanol, the bulk of it in the USA, there has been a transformation of the food–feed competition that emerged in the twentieth century and characterized the world's grain consumption after World War II. Concerns have already been expressed in several quarters regarding the role of corn‐based ethanol in the recent food price spike and the global food crisis. In this context, this article attempts to outline the theoretical tenets of a food–feed–fuel competition in the domain of grain consumption. The study focuses on developments in the US economy from 1980 onwards, when the earliest initiatives on bio‐fuel promotion were undertaken. The transformation of the erstwhile food–feed competition with the introduction of fuel as a further use for grains has caused a new dynamics of adjustments between the different uses of grains. This tilts the distribution of cereal consumption drastically against the low‐income classes and poses tougher challenges in the fight against global hunger.     

Fast food/organic food: Reflexive tastes and the making of 'yuppie chow'

Organic food consumption is one of several new trends in eating read as active opposition to industrialized food provision. While fast food consumption is characterized by compulsive gluttony, manifest in fat bodies, alternative consumption practices are seen to be driven by conscious reflexivity, such that consumers monitor, reflect upon and adapt their personal conduct in light of its perceived consequences. The purpose of this paper is two-fold. One is to examine the evolution of organic food from what Belasco called the 'counter-cuisine' to what organic growers call 'yuppie chow', to show how organic salad mix was the carrier of major changes in the organic system of provision, thereby calling into question the notion that organic food is necessarily an antidote to industrialized food. The other is to problematize the facile dichotomies between fast and slow, reflexive and compulsive, fat and thin, and, hence, good and bad eaters, to show where there is slippage and instability in these categories, in addition to a troubling politics of class and gender. To these ends, I showcase the changing provision of a particular organic commodity (salad mix, or mesclun) in California.     

World Food and Agriculture Elements of the System to the Year 2000

Abstract

The predominating characteristic in world food and agriculture is a high degree of national self-sufficiency. Divergencies in national situations are, however, so great that accurate aggregate statement are difficult to make. The domestic food problems of OECD countries are and should remain relatively minor; those of the USSR and East Europe are more severe but they too should be fully manageable in the medium to longer run. China is likely to remain basically self-sufficient but could become one of the world's greatest importers. The food problem is most critical in low income countries. A continuation of the trends of the last two decades would worsen some aspect of their situation. Such an outcome is not inevitable. A just-completed 90-country study by FAO assessed that developing country food output could grow at around 3.7% over the years 1980–2000 compared with a trend of just under 3%. If this is accompanied by some redistribution of purchasing power and improvements in the international policy framework, including larger food stocks, by the year 2000 their food problems could be largely solved. The inescapable modernization of developing country agriculture will be difficult and very expensive. Developing countries must receive at least one dollar in six of their agricultural investment requirements as external assistance.     

The historiography of hunger: changing views on the world food problem, 1945-1980

The author discusses changing views on the world food problem since 1945. "The extent of the problem has been a matter of debate as hunger cannot be directly measured; estimated minimum requirements for energy have been reduced since 1945 and the causes of malnutrition reappraised. World food production has kept up with population growth since 1945, as it has in all major regions except Africa. But when individual countries are considered, food output per head has been declining since 1961-5 in many countries in Africa and Asia. Food output has been increased in the developing countries by expanding the area under cultivation and by increasing yields." In addition the author concludes that "the Green Revolution has however not achieved early expectations and has had some adverse economic and social consequences. Because world food output per caput has risen considerably since 1945, some have argued that the world food problem is one of distribution, not production. Data on food output per caput suggest this is not always so."     

旅游食物浪费研究评述及展望

旅游食物浪费是我国食物浪费问题的重灾区,其根源在于旅游活动特有的非日常和反结构特征。但目前我国旅游食物研究大多仍关注资源开发和消费促进,浪费研究则处于描述性的起步阶段。本文对国内外旅游食物浪费相关文献进行评述,分析了旅游食物浪费研究的总体特征、概念基础与内容,指出国内研究主要集中在消费端的测量和行为分析;从旅游食物体验的独特性质出发,基于消费文化与旅游体验视角对旅游食物浪费进行溯源;梳理了有助于解决旅游食物浪费问题的理论,包括消费文化视角下从资源消耗型食物消费到环境综合消费、综合价值提升以减少资源成本、基于全价值链参与提升认知和情感以减少浪费;也包括旅游体验视角下针对不同食物体验性质探索节约路径、创造多维度体验以减少资源消耗、以食物共享和慢食为代表的可持续理念的运用等;最终,文章对解决旅游食物浪费问题的未来研究提出了参考框架,从关注点、理念、对象和领域出发,提出议题和对应方法,为兼顾目的地食物价值增值和减少粮食资源消耗提供理论参照。     

Children, ‘healthy’ food,school and family: the ‘[n]ot really’ outcome of school food messages

ABSTRACT

This paper draws on a multi-method study with 50 families in Victoria, Australia. Primary school children were asked about food knowledge from school and whether they felt motivated to bring knowledge home. Generally, children and parents felt school food messages are unclear, contradictory and not relevant to them and this reduced the likelihood of messages coming home from school. We identify a critical difference in how families thought about healthy eating and food practices at home and the framework of school messages. Families focused on children’s eating in a pragmatic way, infused with nurturance as well as concern. We argue their practices can be viewed as a form of relational consumption (Lindsay and Maher 2013. Consuming Families: Buying, Making, Producing Family Life in the Twenty-First Century. New York: Routledge.) where food is part of the everyday exchange of love and care. A disjunction exists between familial relational approaches and the regulatory framework of school food messages that impacts how messages move between these spaces. Attention to relational aspects of food consumption at school might allow for a more valuable exchange between family and schools that supports family endeavours to feed children well.     

食在异乡：旅游世界的极端饮食体验研究

该文以日常生活世界和旅游世界二元对立的视角,针对旅游世界中地方性极端饮食文化体验现象及相关问题展开思辨性研究,研究发现：首先,相较日常生活世界的饮食活动,旅游世界的饮食消费行为体现出功能异化的体验性特征和极化倾向;其次,旅游世界饮食功能异化的内在动力是旅游世界和日常生活世界的二元对立;第三,旅游者的极端饮食体验活动中存在生理、心理、知识技能和社会维度上的四重障碍,并在层级上呈现出超越难度依次递减的规律;第四,基于地方性的饮食生产与基于流动性的饮食消费在旅游世界中实现了对立统一。该文最终将这些理论认识纳入旅游情境理论的理论框架中,构建旅游情境中地方性饮食体验的理论模型,为情境理论在旅游世界的应用拓展了新的方向。     

EXPERIENCE THE DIFFERENCE: THE COMPETITIVE STRATEGIES OF FOOD‐RELATED ENTREPRENEURS IN RURAL DENMARK

As food production becomes increasingly integrated, globalized and competitive, small‐scale food‐related enterprises in many European countries are struggling to market and monetize their products. Although these struggles have been well documented, few studies have considered the ways in which food‐related entrepreneurs in rural contexts are adapting to and overcoming these challenges. In particular, little is known about how they differentiate and add value to their products. This article focuses on the development and implementation of new and hybrid commercial strategies by food‐related entrepreneurs in three rural communities in Denmark. These strategies add experiential elements to the longstanding practice of commodifying myths associated with rural settings and identities. Although harnessing culture and experiences to sell things is nothing new, we demonstrate that some Danish entrepreneurs are responding to market competition by tweaking and extending these concepts. In particular, it is argued that entrepreneurs use different experiences with varying levels of intensity and consumer engagement for different purposes. Whereas passive experiences such as storytelling are used to educate consumers about the specific qualities of products, more active and participatory experiences are sold as add‐ons and standalone products. The findings contribute to our understanding of food‐related entrepreneurship in rural contexts, consumption, value creation and the experience of economy more broadly.     

The impact of Russian food security policy on the performance of the food system

Abstract

Food security has guided Russia’s food policy since 2010. The article examines the impact of food security policy on the food system. The Russian model of food security combines government intervention in the form of assistance for domestic production while simultaneously restricting market access. Food security does not appear to have a deleterious impact on the food system. We measure impact on four dimensions. Financial support for agriculture continues to increase in nominal rubles. In food production, the beef and dairy branches continue to lag, but increased grain production has made Russia a global leader in grain exports. Average per capita food consumption improved, although the poor consume much less, and the decline of the ruble affects the way Russians shop. The largest impact of food security has been on food trade. Food security policy has brought food to the forefront as an instrument of foreign policy. Food trade is politicized, witnessed by the food embargo against the West and food import bans against Turkey and Ukraine.     

长江三角洲地区粮食安全性度量研究

区域粮食安全问题是当前政府与学者关注的热点问题之一。长江三角洲地区高速的工业化、城镇化过程及快速增长的经济使维系粮食生产的耕地数量及质量发生剧烈变化,区域的粮食供需矛盾日益突出。文章对该区粮食生产与土地变化的相关性进行了分析,并阐述了近50年的粮食波动系数,通过预测分析长江三角洲地区粮食产量与消费状况,进一步对该区域粮食安全性进行度量研究。研究结果表明长江三角洲地区粮食缺口将逐年变大,粮食安全状况越来越差,有效的调控措施是实现区域粮食安全的保证。     

The Wages of Collaboration: the German food crisis 1939–1945 and the supplies from Denmark

The problem of limited food supplies left its mark on Germany and the Nazi regime during World War II. The Germans faced diminishing food rations and to a great extent had to rely on supplies from occupied Europe. To a small state like Denmark, with its precarious geo-political position, this turned out to be crucial. Thanks to its advanced agricultural production and fisheries and a generous German price policy, Germany was able to extract a maximum of food from Denmark without damaging the structure of Danish agricultural production. Deliveries culminated in 1943–1945, as Denmark supplied German big cities with 14% of their consumption of meat and pork and more than 20% of the Wehrmacht’s consumption, while Danish butter constituted nearly 9% of consumption in big cities and as much as one third of the Wehrmacht’s consumption during the same period. On this account, Denmark obtained a certain political freedom of action. In internal reports, German authorities in Copenhagen and in the Foreign Ministry repeatedly pointed to the fact that any attempt at changing the occupation regime in Denmark would rid Denmark of its democratically based government and jeopardize the abundant food supplies to Germany. The article argues that Danish food supplies to Germany provided the main reason why democratic Denmark was allowed to maintain its political system despite the German occupation.