Ludwig Knoop, ‘The Arkwright of Russia’

Abstract

Piece-rate arrangements in the British cotton weaving industry were anomalous in that they prescribed a weekly wage based on output. Although, to some extent, output reflected the work done by the weaver, it was also governed by technical and other factors which were beyond the weaver's control. A wage system which emphasized the repair of broken threads and the replenishment of empty shuttles would have been preferable since these were the principal elements of the weaver's work. The absence of a clear relationship between effort and reward confounded attempts to increase productivity in cotton weaving between the wars, and was a particular obstacle to the adoption of the 'more-looms' systems. This article explores the anomalies and the issues to which they gave rise, both at industry level and in a local context characterized by the manufacture of diverse fabric types. It concludes that there was an uncritical acceptance of traditional wage arrangements, reinforced by a fear that fundamental change would destabilize an already fragile system of industry level (that is, across the cotton weaving industry as a whole) bargaining.     

THE 20TH-CENTURY REVOLUTION IN TEXTILE MACHINES AND PROCESSES. PART 2: TEXTURED YARNS AND OTHER TECHNOLOGIES

Abstract

This is the second of a two-part study on the archaeology and technological development of the machine textile industry in the 20th century. The previous paper, Part 1 (IAR, 35·2), described the changes in two long-established textile technologies: the production of yarns from short fibres such as cotton and wool; and the weaving of fabrics. The main part of this paper describes completely new technologies that resulted from the manufacture of new continuous filament yarns. Other technologies are also mentioned.     

The Macclesfield Silk Button Industry: The Probate Evidence

Abstract

Most histories of the silk industry in England begin with the arrival of French refugees to Spitalfields in London, yet silk was prepared for embroidery in Macclesfield by the Middle Ages and the silk button trade was well-established by the early modern period. Through the study of probate evidence, this article aims to redress the imbalance in the historiography of the silk industry in England away from the focus on the activities of the Huguenots in the early modern period, and away from the silk weaving in order to show that the silk button industry succeeded not through technical innovation, but through marketing a luxury item in sufficiently small packages to make it accessible to a wide portion of the population. The silk button industry can be viewed as having laid the foundations in east Cheshire for the transformation of the silk industry into weaving cloth in the mid-eighteenth century.     

Handloom weaving in Wiltshire and Gloucestershire in the 19th century: the building evidence

Abstract

This paper reviews the building evidence for the survival of the home as workplace in 19th-century Wiltshire and Gloucestershire. Handloom weaving prospered rather than declined in the immediate aftermath of the introduction of mechanized spinning, and this prosperity is reflected in the numbers of purpose-built houses containing weaving shops in these two counties. Most were built not by the weavers or clothiers, but by people outside the textile industry as a source of income. The authors have attempted to classify the surviving stock of handloom weavers’ houses into a number of types and to account for their distribution. Documentary evidence has been utilized to determine for how long handloom weaving survived in a domestic context, and it is suggested that in some areas the domestic handloom remained in active use for at least 40 years after the first introduction of the power loom into Wiltshire and Gloucestershire. The paper is therefore a contribution to the archaeology of resistance, showing how this particular group of artisans cherished their illusory independence and resisted integration into the factory system for as long as possible.     

Excavations at Houndhill,near Barnsley,Yorkshire

Abstract

A ‘cottage’ weaving industry was established at Houndhill, family seat of the Elmhirsts in Worsbrough, near Barnsley, during the mid-16th century. It ceased early in the 17th century but excavation has shown it was revived under new ownership in the late 18th century. During the 19th century the mill became a general farm store and was totally demolished in the 1930s to permit a garden extension. The excavation was planned to retain any remaining features for conservation as part of the historical interest of the residence.¹     

Housing the Loom, 1790-1850: A study of industrial building and mechanisation in a transitional period

Abstract

The architecture of the textile mill changed radically during the late 18th and 19th centuries. Influences affecting mill design included the way in which production was organised and the degree to which processes were mechanised. This article examines how the industry developed new building types to accommodate looms. In the early period, handlooms were frequently concentrated in distinctive loomshops. The powerloom, introduced in the early 19th century, presented new problems, and in an experimental period different branches of the industry developed different means of housing the new machines. The single-storeyed shed was the dominant building type adopted for powered weaving, but there were in the silk and tape branches prominent examples of factories in which powerlooms were housed in purpose-built multi-storeyed mills.     

Sub-regional specialization in the Lancashire cotton industry, 1884–1914: a study in organizational and locational change

Locational changes in the Lancashire cotton industry between 1884 and 1914 are re-examined. The concentration of cotton spinning in central and southeast Lancashire and the consolidation of weaving in the northern half of the textile region were caused not only by differential rates of growth in the two sectors but also by the decline of the sub-regionally weaker sector. Single factors such as technological innovation and spatial variations in labour costs are insufficient to account for the deepening segregation of spinning and weaving. Different methods of capital formation led to important changes in the organization of the two sectors. New specialized spinning mills were built by large limited companies in southeast Lancashire whilst in northeast Lancashire a multitude of weaving firms were formed by private entrepreneurs. Throughout the region combined mills declined both relatively and absolutely, but they survived longest in peripheral areas away from the leading centres of expansion and innovation. Divergent processes of sub-regional specialization were related to different labour requirements in the spinning and weaving sectors.     

Chatsworth Street Cutting,Part of the Original Terminus of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway

Abstract

Recent surveys of textile mills in Yorkshire, Greater Manchester and East Cheshire have laid the groundwork for future study in their respective areas. All three have necessarily referred back to precedents set in eighteenth century Derbyshire, where water power was first successfully applied to the manufacture of both silk and cotton. Derbyshire retains an important group of early cotton mills, most of them distributed along the River Derwent and its tributaries. Recent measured surveys of five of the most significant early mills and of a number of related sites by RCHME's Threatened Buildings Sections, supplemented by photographic coverage of further sites over many years, have provided a core of information on which the present article is largely based. The article concentrates on the surviving physical remains of the cotton industry, but draws also on documentary and other evidence for vanished structures.     

Culture and Know-How in the 'Satanic Mills': A Response

Abstract

Richard Biernacki's article in a recent issue of this journal (33:2, 2002) has suggested that up until the First World War the textile industries in Britain were in a primitive state, using machinery which was crudely engineered and thus unpredictable in operation. This response argues that this view is incorrect through examination of wage lists in the Lancashire cotton industry. While it is true that the industry depended on tacit knowledge in certain areas, its machinery met contemporary engineering standards and could be set accurately to produce the yarn and cloth required. The wage lists depended on this accuracy.     

David Evans & Co. The Last of the Old London Textile Printers

Abstract

The Glasgow 'Tobacco Lords' were the subject of a classic study, but there has been no overall survey of their successors, the Scottish cotton masters. This article draws on a rich and surprisingly underused source, the wills and probate inventories of Scottish cotton merchants and manufacturers, to give a fuller picture of a group, which played a key role in Scotland's early industrialisation. It also casts light on the early decline of the cotton industry in Scotland by demonstrating how, as profits declined, the cotton masters, who had always had diverse business interests, began to move into more lucrative areas of investment, such as coal mining, iron manufacturing, railways, shipping and overseas trade.     

Havelock Mill,Manchester: A case-study in the emergency recording of a large urban mill complex

Abstract

The early nineteenth century textile industry in Manchester is best known for its large steam-powered 'town mills', usually built in closely-packed groups alongside the canals, and for the local dominance of the cotton trade. Havelock Mill illustrates the size and complexity of these buildings but is distinguished because it incorporates the city's last intact silk mill. Documentary research and comparison with silk mills in other areas indicates that this was an exceptionally large example which was at the forefront of developments in the mechanisation of silk manufacturing. A cotton mill was later added to the site. Although parts of the complex were structurally unsound, an unusually high proportion of the original features and fittings survived.     

Workhouse populations in the Cheltenham and Belper Unions: A study based on the census enumerators' books, 1851–1911

Abstract

This article examines the changes that occurred in the Cheltenham and Belper workhouse and union populations between 1851 and 1911, with a particular focus on the end of the nineteenth century. The social and economic situation in these two poor law unions was very different. The Cheltenham union had little industry and relied on service occupations and agriculture for employment whist the Belper union covered an expanding industrial area with the development of cotton and iron manufacture. In 1851 the Belper workhouse population was dominated by children, that of Cheltenham by the able-bodied. In 1911 the population of both workhouses was mainly elderly.     

Fireproof Mills — The Widening Perspectives

Abstract

The author discusses how fieldwork by RCHME and others has refined the typology for the development of the fireproof textile mill first put forward by H.R. Johnson and A.W. Skempton in 1956. Details of cast-iron roof framing, the different styles of supporting columns and the problems created by power transmission are all considered. It is suggested that early examples of fireproofing are generally associated with mechanised flax or cotton spinning, the branch of the industry most at risk.     

The Linen Industry of Shropshire

Abstract

The discovery in 1975 of part of Charles Bage's iron framed Castlefields flax mill led the author to study Shropshire's other linen factories and the domestic manufacture of linen and ropes during the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The manufacture of linen by cottagers and farmers from home grown hemp survived, alongside the factories, into the nineteenth century. The hempen cloth produced in Shropshire was rarely sold at markets or fairs, and was made mainly by country families for their own use. The survival of such a cottage industry into the nineteenth century was rare in England, and the existence of a workforce skilled in the preparation and manufacture of hemp and flax was probably one of the factors which influenced Shropshire entrepreneurs to manufacture linen in their factories, rather than cotton.     

British Framework Knitters in New England: Technology Transfer and Machine Knitting in America, 1820–1900

Abstract

The emphasis on the cataclysmic nature of industrialization espoused by mid-twentieth-century economic historians has more recently given way to a realisation that continuity was as important as discontinuity in the social and economic development of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Various branches of the textile industries provide good examples of such continuity. The purpose of this paper is to examine the documentary evidence to try to discover for how long handloom weaving survived in Wiltshire and Gloucestershire after the introduction of the power loom. It will also attempt to determine the motivation of a group of people who resisted being drawn into the factory system. The authors conclude that there is evidence that some homes remained workplaces at least until the 1870s in some villages, especially in Wiltshire.     

Enterprise in Some Working-Class Communities: Cotton Manufacturing in North-east Lancashire and West Craven,c. 1880 to 1914

Abstract

This article studies the social origins and careers of 60 cotton manufacturers in two of the towns in which the room and power system was well established in England before the First World War. It demonstrates that most were from working-class and lower-middle-class families and, as new entrants, they benefited greatly from access to room and power. Even so, money was needed for machinery and working capital, and technical, managerial and commercial experience were essential. It was unlikely that an operative would succeed as a manufacturer unless these prerequisites could be met. The room and power system was the operating context for mature businesses as well as for new entrants, and many successful manufacturers became directors of mill companies of which they were also tenants.     

Crossing traditional boundaries: grub to glamour in Byzantine silk weaving

Abstract

Byzantine silk research evokes images of glamour but it is prudent to consider grass roots as well as exotic aspects of this enticing subject: without the grub there would be no glamour. In its fullest sense a study of Byzantine silk weaving entails research on many and varied levels, across a broad range of disciplines. An immense variety of topics require consideration: the production of the silk yarn; the various workshop practices involved in weaving the yarn into silk cloth; the relationship between technique and design; the marketing and the numerous uses of the silks both at home and abroad, and the implications of the distribution of Byzantine silks purely through diplomatic channels.     

The Hand-Loom in Ulster's Post-Famine Linen Industry: The Limits of Mechanization in Textiles' 'Factory Age'

Abstract

This article explores conditions in the Ulster linen trade which sustained hand-loom weaving through the second half of the nineteenth century. In particular, it investigates the role and limits of technology in this process, and the impact of the American Civil War and its aftermath on mechanization.     

The Agency Houses: British Mercantile Enterprise in the Far East c. 1780–1920

Abstract

This article explores the use of flax for fibre in Croatia. It concentrates on traditional flax growing and processing techniques being revived through The Flax Project. Traditional flax varieties utilised in Croatia, together with ongoing research to find the most suitable flax cultivars for the Croatian climate today, are discussed. Locally produced flax was widely used to make folk costumes and household linens. The stages of turning the processed flax fibre into linen cloth are described, including spinning, weaving, decorative techniques, bleaching, dyeing, and pleating through to its aftercare including washing, ironing, storage and related issues of conservation.     

Changes in the Geography of Wine New Wine in New Bottles

Abstract

The wine industry is experiencing considerable change, with improvements in quality, the emergence of new geographical areas producing distinctive and prestigious wines, and particularly the increasing significance of large scale organisations in production and distribution. Scientific, technological and commercial factors have been crucial to these developments.