袁世凯送龙袍

1916年,袁世凯正式称帝,改民国五年为“洪宪元年”。他做皇帝之前,总统府给他特制了一件龙袍,龙袍上有龙九条,蜿蜒全身。袁世凯看了不悦,认为这九条龙是散龙,龙气不团结,于是又命重做一件九条龙团结在一起的龙袍。龙袍做成以后,袁世凯试穿了两次,进行登基演习。     

清顺治十一年织造的缂丝龙袍

1956年春,在本院库房发见一件单经蓝地缂丝顶寿龙袍捻襟式衣料,缺领边袖。身高155公分,宽141公分。通身为宝蓝色纬线织地,以紫赤圆金和淡圆金两种细金线,织就大小正龙、昇龙、降龙和行龙30条,施大红和桃红、秋香和柳绿、石青和宝兰等杂色线,织成五彩祥云缭绕于龙云周围,龙云之     

清宫吉日的锦绣霓裳 后妃吉服叙要

<正>清宫吉服,是清代皇帝、后妃、宗室等在元旦(春节)、冬至、万寿(皇帝寿辰)三大节日和其他喜庆吉日穿着的服饰,虽然《大清会典·舆服制》中将吉服款式、颜色、龙纹图案等方面作了严格规定,不得僭越,但因其是在喜庆之日穿着,所以吉服的色彩之华美,图案寓意之丰富是其他典制服饰所不及的。清宫通常称清帝吉服为龙袍(图1),图案除龙纹外,还饰有十二章纹饰,象征着皇权的至高无上。龙袍形式为:圆领、大襟右衽、马蹄袖端、四开裾、直身式袍     

皇帝的龙袍讲究多

从古至今,龙袍对于普通大众来说都是特别神秘的。其实古代中国人缔造出了很多瑞兽,比如龙、麒麟、凤凰等,可为什么偏偏选择龙作为皇帝衣衫上的图案呢？简单地说,因为龙作为神兽,能够上天入地,包括入海、入水,无所不能,这是龙作为皇帝象征的一个最基本的特征。     

袁世凯的“龙袍”和“龙椅”

袁世凯称帝前后,着实热闹了一番,改年号、刻玉玺、造国旗、绣龙袍、做龙椅、封爵位、立后妃,还发行了纪念邮票、纪念金银币等。凡皇帝“登基”应有的、他都准备了。     

龙纹在帝王服饰上的运用

一、前言 在中国,龙纹在服饰上的运用有着悠久的历史。龙究竟是什么?它和帝王是什么关系?龙纹何以为少数人所独享?笔者试以龙纹在服饰上的运用为研究对象,对龙的起源和发展、龙成为最高统治者的化身、龙衣、龙袍的出现,以及本馆所藏清末代皇帝龙袍在龙纹造型、色彩运用及刺绣针法等方面进行一次初步探讨和研究。     

皇帝的龙袍讲究多

从古至今，龙袍对于普通大众来说都是特别神秘的。其实古代中国人缔造出了很多瑞兽，比如龙、麒麟、凤凰等，可为什么偏偏选择龙作为皇帝衣衫上的图案呢？简单地说，因为龙作为神兽，能够上天入地，包括入海、入水，无所不能，这是龙作为皇帝象征的一个最基本的特征。     

略谈中国缂丝的起源

缂丝是我国优美的丝织工艺之一。关于它的起源,过去曾有许多推论。明张习志为朱克柔缂丝牡丹所作题跋上说:"尅丝作盛于贞观开元间。"宋洪皓松漠纪闻说刻丝在唐末自回鹘传入本朝秦州。日人大村西涯认为"尅丝即隋唐所谓织成锦。"李杏南先生认为"刻丝是从西汉的织成演变来的"看法颇不一致,自然各有所本,但是他们都未说出缂丝究竟起自何时,而且把缂丝     

皇帝梦

<正>拍摄地点:杭州,西湖拍摄时间:5月1日INFO:尼康D800,F/5.6,1/800s,ISO 100正值五一假期,天气很好,我带着相机去了西湖,想在众多游人中抓取一些有意思的瞬间。这两位身穿龙袍的外国旅客吸引了很多围观的人,我和他们聊了几句,他们说自己很喜欢中国的古代文化,想拍些有趣的照片留念。当我说"I want to be an emperor.(我想做皇帝。)"时,他们止不住笑了,我按下快门,记录下了这个镜头内外都乐在其中的瞬间。     

“真龙天子”与龙袍

我国传统戏剧里有一个剧目叫做《打龙袍》,说的是宋代清官包拯查访到当年被刘皇后诬陷而流落民间的李宸妃,即仁宗皇帝的生母。后来经太监陈琳作证,说明当年刘皇后命郭槐以狸猫换太子陷害李妃的经过,仁宗皇帝命斩郭槐迎母入宫,李太后封赏包公,并命包公责打仁宗皇帝不孝。包公只好把仁宗穿的龙袍当作皇帝来打,     

场域织补:旅游传统村落更新理论新议

文章引入织补理论和场域理论，采用理论演绎与概念诠释方法，从场域织补视角出发对旅游传统村落更新理论进行思辨。研究发现，旅游重构了传统村落更新方向与逻辑，村落“碎片化”提供了织补理论应用的复杂性与矛盾性条件；旅游引发传统村落场域解构为旅游、生活、生产三大子场域，资本分化和竞争加大场域内外压力并引致场域失调；在保持村落复杂性前提下，场域织补可通过调适场域而作用于旅游传统村落更新过程。研究认为，场域织补的基本内容包括文化场域织补和关系场域织补，可运用资本调适作为场域织补的技术工具。     

清代纺织面料——“羽毛纱”的织物结构研究

本文运用现代纺织科学的检测手段,分析了故宫博物院收藏的两件“羽毛纱”样品的组织结构和各项物理指标（织物单位面积质量、织物密度、纱线线密度、纱线捻度和捻度系数）及其织造方法,找到了同样织法的两块织物,存在不同面料风格的真正原因。古人通过巧妙的织造方法,充分发挥纺织原料各自的优点,织造出满足不同穿着目的的面料。     

Sub-regional specialization in the Lancashire cotton industry, 1884–1914: a study in organizational and locational change

Locational changes in the Lancashire cotton industry between 1884 and 1914 are re-examined. The concentration of cotton spinning in central and southeast Lancashire and the consolidation of weaving in the northern half of the textile region were caused not only by differential rates of growth in the two sectors but also by the decline of the sub-regionally weaker sector. Single factors such as technological innovation and spatial variations in labour costs are insufficient to account for the deepening segregation of spinning and weaving. Different methods of capital formation led to important changes in the organization of the two sectors. New specialized spinning mills were built by large limited companies in southeast Lancashire whilst in northeast Lancashire a multitude of weaving firms were formed by private entrepreneurs. Throughout the region combined mills declined both relatively and absolutely, but they survived longest in peripheral areas away from the leading centres of expansion and innovation. Divergent processes of sub-regional specialization were related to different labour requirements in the spinning and weaving sectors.     

定陵出土丝织物题记

在定陵出土丝织物中有相当一部分有题记。题记形式有墨书、绣字、织字等几类。这些题记内容广泛,记载详细,有织造机构、各道工序人员、司吏、丝织名称、颜色、纹饰、质地、用料、用途及匹料长度等。这些题记为后人研究明代官办丝织业的组织分工情况,督造验收制度,织品的产地、规格、品种等,提供了可靠的实物证据。具有非常重要的史料价值,是研究明代丝织业发展的有力证据。     

古代提花四经绞罗生产工艺探秘

中国古代提花四经绞罗工艺技术已失传,但其生产工艺神奇独特。为了复原其工艺,以长沙马王堆出土的杯型菱纹罗为复制对象,在四经绞罗地组织的穿综方法、提花四经绞罗纹部组织的穿综方法、提花方式的选择方面,改进了夏鼐和约翰贝克的方法,用两步开口方法成功地复制了织物。其参数为:总经4440根,幅宽:50cm,经密88.8根/cm,纬密18根/cm,经线纤度56D。此方法可供进一步探索四经绞罗的织造技术参考。     

论近代中国后发棉纺织小企业的纵向一体化战略——以常州广益布厂为例

错过了＂黄金时代＂的部分后发棉纺织小企业通过纵向一体化战略成功发展成为中型企业集团。常州广益布厂,以棉织生产为战略突破口,抓住机器印染业方兴的趋势,先前向一体化印染生产,再后向一体化纺纱生产,最终发展成为大成纺织印染集团。这一战略给大成带来了节省交易成本、稳定交易关系、防御竞争对手的优效作用。这一成功案例为后发小企业的发展提供了借鉴。     

从养蚕和复原织机做起

丝绸来自蚕桑丝织,蚕桑丝织的起源在本质上是一项科学技术的创造发明。先人们栽桑养蚕,并让其吐丝结茧,巧织经纬将其织成锦绮,还用印花刺绣让虚幻仙境和真实自然在织物上体现。在这一过程中,就有着无数项创造发明的专利。如把野桑蚕驯化成为家蚕,是生物学史上的一项极难的成果,     

Handloom weaving in Wiltshire and Gloucestershire in the 19th century: the building evidence

Abstract

This paper reviews the building evidence for the survival of the home as workplace in 19th-century Wiltshire and Gloucestershire. Handloom weaving prospered rather than declined in the immediate aftermath of the introduction of mechanized spinning, and this prosperity is reflected in the numbers of purpose-built houses containing weaving shops in these two counties. Most were built not by the weavers or clothiers, but by people outside the textile industry as a source of income. The authors have attempted to classify the surviving stock of handloom weavers’ houses into a number of types and to account for their distribution. Documentary evidence has been utilized to determine for how long handloom weaving survived in a domestic context, and it is suggested that in some areas the domestic handloom remained in active use for at least 40 years after the first introduction of the power loom into Wiltshire and Gloucestershire. The paper is therefore a contribution to the archaeology of resistance, showing how this particular group of artisans cherished their illusory independence and resisted integration into the factory system for as long as possible.     

The Room and Power System in the Cotton Weaving Industry of North-east Lancashire and West Craven

Abstract

The paper discusses the room and power system which before the First World War offered an appropriate form of organisation for cotton weaving in major sections of the British industry. The system was successfully adopted in a range of local circumstances and for a variety of fabric types. Its primary advantage was the reduction of entry barriers by reconciling the very low minimum economic scale of cotton manufacture with the much larger scale required for a weaving shed and related facilities. During the years of decline, the system became less useful, not least because it reinforced the fragmentation of the industry and created obstacles to investment.     

新疆帕米尔吉尔赞喀勒拜火教墓地出土纺织品分析检测

受中国社会科学院考古所新疆考古队委托,纺织品文物保护国家文物局重点科研基地(中国丝绸博物馆)对新疆帕米尔吉尔赞喀勒拜火教墓地出土纺织品进行分析检测。采用形貌观测、高效液相色谱质谱联用技术、组织结构观测等方法对样本进行了纤维鉴别、染料测试、组织结构分析,从中发现的纤维品种包括桑蚕丝、毛,染料品种包括西茜草、靛青、黄檗等,织物品种包括毛罽、编织物、绢等。结合历史考古资料对上述分析检测结果进行解读,大量的毛纺织品表明在距今2500年前的帕米尔高原,纺织品具有明显的西域当地性,而具有典型汉文化特色的桑蚕丝和黄檗体现了与中原地区的文化和技术交流。