Havelock Mill,Manchester: A case-study in the emergency recording of a large urban mill complex

Abstract

The early nineteenth century textile industry in Manchester is best known for its large steam-powered 'town mills', usually built in closely-packed groups alongside the canals, and for the local dominance of the cotton trade. Havelock Mill illustrates the size and complexity of these buildings but is distinguished because it incorporates the city's last intact silk mill. Documentary research and comparison with silk mills in other areas indicates that this was an exceptionally large example which was at the forefront of developments in the mechanisation of silk manufacturing. A cotton mill was later added to the site. Although parts of the complex were structurally unsound, an unusually high proportion of the original features and fittings survived.     

Development of an enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay based on the monoclonal antibody of Bombyx mori to detect ancient silk

Identifying the traces and residues of unearthed silk fibres is crucial for further analysis and study. In this study, an enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) based on the monoclonal antibodies specific to Bombyx mori fibroin was developed in order to for detect ancient silk. Five monoclonal antibodies were successfully prepared based on fibroin hydrolysate, and four had a high specificity for mulberry silk. Furthermore, they could be used to discern B. mori fibre from tussah fibre and eri fibre. The ELISA standard curve of the most sensitive monoclonal antibody, anti‐Silk Fibroin (SF)‐3, was y = 0.022x + 0.177 (R² = 0.998), and the detection limit was 4.65 ng/ml. Using this antibody, we successfully identified five ancient mulberry silk samples from different time periods. The results suggest that ELISA assays based on monoclonal antibodies can be used as an immunological testing method for unearthed silk fibre.     

The Diwaniah: A Traditional Kuwaiti Social Institution in a Political Role

A s sociologists try to uncover the reasons why Kuwait was not only able to endure the oppression of the Iraqi invasion and occupation but also to recover relatively rapidly, some social institutions in the country are being explored for their value in understanding the coping strategies available within the culture. One such traditional institution is the diwaniah. This informal institution in Kuwait served as a natural and largely unchallenged survival mechanism both during historical conflicts and turmoil as well as recently during the Iraqi invasion and occupation. As a culture-wide tradition, the diwaniah, by providing the meeting places for men to discuss important political and social issues, played several significant roles during the Iraqi invasion and occupation. In this paper, the author investigates the growth of and changes within the traditional institution of the diwaniah over the years in Kuwait, describing its structure and development, and evaluating its influence and the roles it has played in Kuwait's sociopolitical history. The study includes results of a an informal survey of the roles the diwaniah has played during the last decade in the social future of the diwaniah in Kuwait is positive and promising, because its importance and traditional influence are increasing each day. While the diwaniah is a Gulf Arab tradition, it is in Kuwait that it has maintained its strength. Kuwaitis are proud of this unique institution, they see how it helped them cope with the dangers of an occupying army, and they understand that it made possible the swift recovery after the war. Therefore, it is the wish of every Kuwaiti to preserve the diwaniah for the coming generations for the welfare of the society and the individual.     

特制绢地书画作品修复——以清代莫晋绢本书法立轴为例

特制绢地书画作品的修复历来是一大难题,因困于材料的特殊性与稀缺性,如寻觅不到同类补绢,就较难实现理想的修复效果。清代莫晋绢本书法立轴的画心材质为一种经过涂布、染色、描绘等工艺制成的特制绢本,因保存不当,画心已出现严重断裂残缺、部分涂层填料脱落等劣化现象,亟需修复保护。但画心用绢的质地和颜色特殊,无法找到与之接近的补绢。本次修复通过对绢的表面涂层进行检测分析,并参阅传统纸张再加工材料的检测报告和研究文献,再结合对材料的老化实验等,确定将瓷土和高岭土按一定比例混合来代替原涂层中的铅白作为本次修复的涂布材料。最后通过对修补涂层的全色,取得较为理想的修复效果。     

Brush-Piling: Eighteenth Century Engineering in an American Wilderness

Abstract

Old Mill was one of a small group of early silk mills established in East Cheshire during the mid-18th century. It was notable for its size, and for the involvement of James Brindley in its construction. The mill was extended and a beam engine added c. 1830, but it was partially demolished in 1939. In 2003 the remaining structures were demolished, which provided the opportunity for a programme of building recording and excavation. James Brindley's role is examined in terms of the application of water power, and the context of the classical architecture and likely geological provenance of Old Mill is discussed.     

Biomass Spectrometry Identification of the Fibre Material in the Pall Imprint Excavated from Grave M1, Peng‐state Cemetery,Shanxi, China

In order to identify the fibre material of the pall imprint excavated from the Peng‐state cemetery in Shanxi, biomass spectrometry was applied to determine the amino acid sequences of the residual protein extracted from the soil underneath the imprint. The sequences were searched against a standard protein sequence database. A well‐preserved silk pall sample from the Warring States Period was used as a comparative template. The protein extracted is identified as silk fibroin (Bombyx mori). This finding indicates that the extremely degraded pall was made of silk and that the deceased in the Peng‐state cemetery enjoyed high social status. In this way, a novel methodology, which is very promising in uncovering the origin of silk, could be initiated.     

Eighteenth-century Copenhagen viewed from a refuse dump

Abstract

The excavation of a town refuse dump in Copenhagen has recovered a remarkably rich and varied assemblage of artefacts including ceramics, glass, animal bones, feathers, textiles, gloves, woollen socks, silk stockings and shoes. They were deposited c. 1750–65, but include many objects dating from the early years of the 18th century. Because the deposits were waterlogged, various unusual types of organic evidence were preserved. This paper gives an introduction to the site and its material, and outlines some of its research potential.     

NEW EVIDENCE FOR EARLY SILK IN THE INDUS CIVILIZATION*

Silk is an important economic fibre, and is generally considered to have been the exclusive cultural heritage of China. Silk weaving is evident from the Shang period c. 1600–1045 bc , though the earliest evidence for silk textiles in ancient China may date to as much as a millennium earlier. Recent microscopic analysis of archaeological thread fragments found inside copper‐alloy ornaments from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu‐daro, two important Indus sites, have yielded silk fibres, dating to c. 2450–2000 bc . This study offers the earliest evidence in the world for any silk outside China, and is roughly contemporaneous with the earliest Chinese evidence for silk. This important new finding brings into question the traditional historical notion of sericulture as being an exclusively Chinese invention.     

Silks,skills and opportunities in Byzantium: some reflexions

Abstract

Silks gave visible form to Byzantium's political culture and, being light to carry, could circulate widely. Many of the garments issued to recipients of offices and titles were made of silk and the Book of the Eparch takes for granted the close connection between imperial prerogatives, silken vestments of various shades of purple and restrictions on foreigners' access to them. Through whetting appetites for silks and maintaining a monopoly over the finest quality products, the emperor could hope to arouse in his own subjects and foreigners alike the desire to gain them through some form of ‘service’. These products simultaneously expressed his wealth, superior knowledge and — by the symbols on them — the antiquity and unsurpassable legitimacy of his rule.     

The Macclesfield Silk Button Industry: The Probate Evidence

Abstract

Most histories of the silk industry in England begin with the arrival of French refugees to Spitalfields in London, yet silk was prepared for embroidery in Macclesfield by the Middle Ages and the silk button trade was well-established by the early modern period. Through the study of probate evidence, this article aims to redress the imbalance in the historiography of the silk industry in England away from the focus on the activities of the Huguenots in the early modern period, and away from the silk weaving in order to show that the silk button industry succeeded not through technical innovation, but through marketing a luxury item in sufficiently small packages to make it accessible to a wide portion of the population. The silk button industry can be viewed as having laid the foundations in east Cheshire for the transformation of the silk industry into weaving cloth in the mid-eighteenth century.     

Politics without democracy 1815–1914: Perception and preoccupation in British government

Nietzsche's embrace of the idea of eternal recurrence has long puzzled readers, both because the idea is inherently implausible and because it seems inconsistent with other aspects of his philosophy. This paper offers a novel account of Nietzsche's motives for that embrace—namely that Nietzsche found in eternal recurrence the only possible way to reconcile three potent and apparently conflicting convictions: (1) there are no Hinterwelten (“worlds-beyond”), (2) the great love (take joy in) all things just as they are (amor fati), and (3) all joy wills eternity. The case for this account has two parts. I show first that Nietzsche was deeply committed to each of these principles at or before the time the idea of eternal recurrence “came to” him in 1881 and second that these principles, though in apparent conflict, can, as Nietzsche understood them, be reconciled by, and only by, the idea of eternal recurrence. It follows, I argue, that the idea of eternal recurrence was originally independent of Nietzsche's conceptions of the will to power and the Übermensch.     

“Going Public” Reconsidered: Reagan's 1981 Tax and Budget Cuts,and Revisionist Theories of Presidential Power

This paper examines the thesis of the public presidency. In light of the success of Ronald Reagan, many revisionist scholars have criticized traditional models of presidential politics. Whereas traditional views emphasized the bargaining presidency, these recent scholars now argue that, today, the politics of rhetoric dominate the politics of bargaining. This paper examines the central case study of the going-public model, Reagan's 1981 tax and budget cuts, a critical case because it represents Reagan's central legislative success and because many scholars and pundits have credited this success to Reagan's frequent televised public appeals. The case reveals that a strong bargaining dynamic played a part in the 1981 process, and that going public strategies were not as dominant as previously thought.

What has changed significantly is the balance of incentives and constraints that influence strategic choice and the kinds of politicians in the Oval Office who make them. Contemporary presidents, after carefully considering their options, will choose going public over bargaining more often than did their predecessors.

–Samuel Kernell, Going Public     

Crossing traditional boundaries: grub to glamour in Byzantine silk weaving

Abstract

Byzantine silk research evokes images of glamour but it is prudent to consider grass roots as well as exotic aspects of this enticing subject: without the grub there would be no glamour. In its fullest sense a study of Byzantine silk weaving entails research on many and varied levels, across a broad range of disciplines. An immense variety of topics require consideration: the production of the silk yarn; the various workshop practices involved in weaving the yarn into silk cloth; the relationship between technique and design; the marketing and the numerous uses of the silks both at home and abroad, and the implications of the distribution of Byzantine silks purely through diplomatic channels.     

The Deleterious Dominance of The Times in Nineteenth-Century Scholarship

The Times was a mid-nineteenth-century newspaper phenomenon, defeating rival London newspapers through its skilful management, advanced technology, greater editorial resources and access to powerful politicians. Its authority enabled it to make and break governments. However, the uniqueness of The Times limits its usefulness as a historical source. This article begins with a brief history of The Times, before analysing how the newspaper remains centre stage in the historiography of journalism and of nineteenth-century culture more broadly, despite the digitization of provincial and other London papers. Over-dependence on The Times, it argues, has exaggerated the significance of London daily newspapers and underplayed the importance of weekly papers, particularly those published outside London. The Times was unusual because it was a metropolitan rather than provincial paper, with a focus on political news and a dearth of lighter, broader content, or news of events around the UK. Using quantitative analysis of recent scholarship, the article demonstrates that unwarranted conclusions are still drawn from over-use of this source and from a wider view that it was representative of nineteenth-century newspapers in general. The conclusion urges a more geographically and culturally nuanced approach to Victorian newspapers, beyond a metropolitan-focused political and cultural history.     

Talcott Parsons as translator of Max Weber's basic sociological categories

The first four chapters of Max Weber's Economy and Society presented by Talcott Parsons in 1947 as Theory of Social and Economic Organization present a coherent and complete analysis of social, economic and political structures based upon a consistent theory of social action and its understanding. Parsons did not see them this way. His lengthy introduction sought to insert them into his own “action frame of reference”, and his rearrangement of the text made it difficult for a reader to understand why it was constructed the way that it is. This essay describes how Parsons came to be principal translator and editor of the text, examines the changes that he made to it, and links his editorial practice to the analytical procedures that he followed in his Structure of Social Action.     

Why Nietzsche embraced eternal recurrence

Nietzsche's embrace of the idea of eternal recurrence has long puzzled readers, both because the idea is inherently implausible and because it seems inconsistent with other aspects of his philosophy. This paper offers a novel account of Nietzsche's motives for that embrace—namely that Nietzsche found in eternal recurrence the only possible way to reconcile three potent and apparently conflicting convictions: (1) there are no Hinterwelten (“worlds-beyond”), (2) the great love (take joy in) all things just as they are (amor fati), and (3) all joy wills eternity. The case for this account has two parts. I show first that Nietzsche was deeply committed to each of these principles at or before the time the idea of eternal recurrence “came to” him in 1881 and second that these principles, though in apparent conflict, can, as Nietzsche understood them, be reconciled by, and only by, the idea of eternal recurrence. It follows, I argue, that the idea of eternal recurrence was originally independent of Nietzsche's conceptions of the will to power and the Übermensch.     

明代丝织物保存状态的分析研究

考古出土丝绸保存状态的研究对丝绸的科学保护具有重要的指导意义。本工作选取丝纤维中最主要的桑蚕丝及柞蚕丝作参照,以考古出土的明代丝绸为研究对象,通过荧光电子显微镜观察丝绸的纤维结构形貌、傅立叶变换红外光谱仪分析化学结构,结合X-射线衍射仪分析结晶度,用薄层色谱分析丝绸中氨基酸的组成,并进一步用紫外-可见光分光光度法分析丝绸中酪氨酸含量等方法,对一件出土的明代丝绸织物的保存状态进行了科学分析研究。分析结果表明,明代丝绸为桑蚕丝,纤维丝松散且断裂较多,结晶度下降,多数氨基酸含量明显降低,只检测到甘氨酸、丙氨酸、丝氨酸、酪氨酸与谷氨酸。酪氨酸含量为13.78%,比参照桑蚕丝含量低。     

Geographies of Hardy's Wessex

The novels of Thomas Hardy represent a number of different “geographies”—the means by which their various characters and narrators explore places and come to know them. The “geographies” of the characters and narrators in Tess of the d'Urbervilles and The return of the native are examined in this essay. It shows that the “primal” geography of the youthful Tess, and of those who live on Egdon Heath, is represented as circular, and is constructed by more senses than the visual, while that of the reader is linear and wholly visual in its preoccupations with geology, cartography and the picturesque; and it examines the destruction of the “primal” geography in Tess, as she becomes an itinerant labourer. The task of the narrators, in their attempt to mediate between the two geographies, is considered, and it is suggested that this attempt is bound to fail, because the division between them is founded in an idea of history, as of a moment of primal unity and its subsequent differentiation, which is not perceived as open to question.     

古代丝织品的丝素蛋白加固保护

目前采用一般的物理加固和化学加固方法对脆弱丝织品进行保护存在着一定的缺陷和限制,为此,本工作利用与丝织品具有同源性和亲和性的丝素蛋白对清代丝织品进行加固保护。清代丝织品在丝素蛋白浓度为1.0%、戊二醛浓度为0.005%、浸渍时间(T1)为40min、浸渍时间(T2)为60min的较优工艺条件下,断裂强力从5.22N提高到10.68N,断裂伸长率从3.24%提高到4.12%,硬挺度略有改变,提高了0.08×10-2mN.m。同时,利用FT-IR、TG和SEM等对加固前后清代丝织品的结构进行了表征。实验结果显示,利用丝素蛋白加固丝织品文物是一种有效的方法,在提高古代丝织品强度的同时,不对丝织品的外观与手感造成影响。