From foodways to intangible heritage: a case study of Chinese culinary resource,retail and recipe in Hong Kong

Chinese foodways is a complex mix of regional elements including a wide range of ingredients and culinary skills, and is considered a system of knowledge not only inherited from the past but also determined by socio-political changes in different eras. Even though great differences can be found between northern and southern ingredients and culinary skills, there are common characteristics shared among cuisines in various regions through internal migration as well as importation of ingredients and cooking skills. Apart from studying Chinese foodways as regional traditions in the historical context, we should look at it as intangible heritage from the socio-political perspectives regarding the current debate on cultural preservation. In this article, I aim to investigate Chinese foodways related to heritage preservation focusing on culinary resource in agricultural and cultivation system, wholesale/retail trade network and family recipe, in order to have a better understanding of food heritage in the fast-changing Hong Kong society. With the three cases provided, I would draw attention to the paradox of defining heritage for preservation and the dilemma of whether we should preserve traditional foodways that have been modified for market interest as they are discredited for loss of authenticity.     

Stone Soup: photo-elicitation as a learning tool in the food geography classroom

This paper showcases self-reflective and inclusive pedagogy using photo-elicitation in a food geography course assignment. The Stone Soup project positions students as both researchers and participant-subjects in a participant-driven photo-elicitation (PDPE) study of students' foodways. Student papers for this assignment demonstrate rich understandings of the factors enabling and constraining food practices. We suggest that PDPE has value beyond being a research tool; it can empower students as learners and can offer a quality of insight and depth of engagement that are complementary to critical themes in food studies courses.     

Feeding Teotihuacan: integrating approaches to studying food and foodways of the ancient metropolis

This special issue of the Journal of Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences provides a broad overview of the foods and foodways at a premier example of urbanism in the pre-Hispanic New World, the ancient metropolis of Teotihuacan, Mexico. One of the grand challenges of reconstructing ancient urban foodways is determining the social, economic, political, and ideological factors that enabled the production, distribution, consumption, and discard of food. In this volume, we define foodways as a social process, reenacted via the daily interactions between individuals. By bringing together scholars of Teotihuacan that use diverse methods and scales of analysis, we are able to provide a synthetic review of Teotihuacan foodways by summarizing the findings of each of the contributors and contextualizing their results by embedding them within knowledge gained from the long history of investigation at the site.     

Becoming Modern: Hybrid Foodways in Early Modern Tornio,Northern Finland

This paper focuses on foodways in a small town in northern Finland between 1621 and 1800 CE. Tornio was founded in 1621in northern Finland, at that time a part of the Swedish kingdom. Tornio was a dynamic town where people of different ethnic origins came together, forming a new urban community and new urban foodways. Archaeological remains of the town’s foodways—animal remains, macrofossils, and ceramics—suggest that the food culture of Tornio was a hybrid of local indigenous and rural traditions and international fashions. The foodways underwent significant changes in the 18th century. The changes were related to modernization and changing human-environmental relationships.     

Starchy shells: Residue analysis of precolonial northern Caribbean culinary practices

Determining culinary practices is critical for understanding phytocultural complexes, transported landscapes and human niche constructions. Starch analysis is an exemplary method for reconstructing human–plant dependencies. However, certain types of artefacts from the Greater Caribbean region, such as flaked lithics, lithic griddles, coral artefacts and shells, have not been extensively analysed for starch remains. Moreover, there has been no comparison of culinary practices between The Bahama archipelago and the Greater Antilles (the presumed origin of foodways transported to The Bahama archipelago). The paper investigates 60 bivalve shell artefacts for starch remains, which were recovered from three archaeological sites: El Flaco and La Luperona (Dominican Republic), and Palmetto Junction (Turks & Caicos Islands). In contrast to ethnohistorical narratives that characterize shell tools exclusively as manioc peelers, the starch remains recovered in this study suggest a broader suite of plants and functions. The results provide evidence that a diversity of plants (Dioscorea spp., Dioscorea trifida L., Fabaceae, Ipomoea batatas L., Manihot esculenta Crantz, cf. Zea mays L., cf. Acrocomia media O. F. Cook, and Zingiberales) were prepared with these shells. This new evidence contributes to ongoing discussions about culinary practices in the Caribbean and other related late precolonial (c.800–1500 ce ) foodways.     

Identifying high-status foods in the archeological record

More than providing simply nutritive value, food in human societies can be endowed with great social weight. Aspects of any given food system inform, and are informed by, a variety of social, economic, religious, historical, ecological, cultural, and political processes. Moreover, food systems are often intentionally designed and executed to communicate key aspects of a consumer’s identity including class or social status. The manipulation of food systems on the part of socio-political elites or high status individuals is but one example of this phenomenon, the appearance of which is a correlate of increased socio-political hierarchy. As food can come to be used by elites as a socio-political tool in stratified societies, the temptation to use archeologically recognizable differences in foodways as a means of understanding the origin, nature, and functioning of processes of stratification is strong. The obvious difficulty lies in developing theoretically informed methods that reckon food system differences in ways that enable scholars to identify those foods that may have been particularly imbued with social meaning. In this paper, we propose a metric for the identification of elite foods (or, indeed, socially valued foods) using the types of data typically available to archeologists. Based on these proposed criteria, we attempt to unravel the complex and politically charged food system of the stratified societies of the pre-Columbian Greater Antilles with an eye towards refining our understanding of the development and maintenance of prestige and institutionalized power therein.     

跨越地理边界的地方性食物——以广州流动群体的饮食消费为例

地方性食物原本被定义成在清晰的地理边界内生产的食物，是“本地人”抵抗极端商品化食物系统的有力武器，但以地理边界为中心的视角压抑了消费者身体的积极作用，也忽视了作为“外来者”的流动群体的在地饮食体验。基于对广州流动群体的日常饮食消费的深入考察，本研究发现：流动群体对跨越地理边界的故乡食物和广州本地食物主动赋予丰富的地方性意涵，构筑日常饮食“流动的地方性”。基于身体与食物的关系视角，本研究认为身体接触食物的契合感受以及与食物提供者的信任关系奠定了流动群体建构地方性食物的基本途径。区别于反抗式的地方性食物运动，流动群体把地方性食物嵌入在地生活，凸显多重的日常意义，主要表现在突破食物知识困境，缓解饮食焦虑，以及增进身体和地方的亲密关系。     

Dutch Oven and Bantenese Cooking Stove: Coarse Earthenware Study in the Sultanate of Banten,Java, Indonesia

This paper analyzes Dutch and indigenous adaptation processes of foodways in the colonial Dutch East Indies, using seventeenth to early nineteenth-century archaeological evidence from Banten, Java. Banten was a global trading center and the focal point of the expansion in Asia of the Dutch East India Company (VOC). Its cosmopolitan and multinational society was already apparent when the Dutch arrived in 1596. Our research suggests that the Dutch in Banten adapted to using locally produced utilitarian earthenware instead of importing European vessels or having European-style cookware made in Banten. Banten’s pre-existing market-oriented urban society made many of the basic necessities available for the VOC garrison in Banten. Perhaps equally important in facilitating Dutch adaptation to local foodways was the presence of local women and Asian cooks in their daily life.     

人文地理学视角下的国外饮食文化研究进展

随着人文地理学的文化转向,以及跨学科的研究趋势,有关饮食、饮食文化体系和饮食活动的研究成为了地理学的研究对象之一。人文地理学视角下国外饮食文化研究主要集中在饮食的象征意义、饮食的文化经济、饮食的文化政治以及饮食与认同的相关研究四个方面。而国外的饮食文化研究趋势主要表现在(1)强调饮食全球化和跨国现象及其带来的影响;(2)关注饮食的意义以及人、饮食、物质环境和社会之间关系的探讨;(3)从探讨饮食和饮食文化本身的地理学研究,转向对饮食空间问题的探讨。在此基础上,从人地关系、跨地方以及文化政治三个方面对人文地理学视角下国内饮食文化研究提出了展望。     

PIGS FOR THE GODS: BURNT ANIMAL SACRIFICES AS EMBODIED RITUALS AT A MYCENAEAN SANCTUARY

Summary. The archaeology of animal sacrifice has attracted considerable attention, although discussions on the meanings and social effects of the practice in different contexts are rather under-developed. In the Aegean, classical antiquity has provided abundant literary, zooarchaeological and iconographic evidence (and has inspired some excellent studies) but it has also overshadowed discussion on sacrifice in other periods. Until recently, it was assumed that burnt animal sacrifices (i.e. the ritual burning of bones or parts of the carcass, often taken to be offerings to the deities) were absent from the pre-classical contexts. Recent studies have shown this not to be the case. This article reports and discusses evidence for burnt animal sacrifices from the sanctuary of Ayios Konstantinos at Methana, north-east Peloponnese. It constitutes the first, zooarchaeologically verified such evidence from a sanctuary context. The main sacrificial animals seem to have been juvenile pigs, which were transported as whole carcasses into the main cultic room; non-meaty parts were selected for burning whereas their meaty parts were first consumed by humans and then thrown into the fire (some neonatal pigs may have been thrown into the fire whole). The article integrates zooarchaeological, other contextual, and comparative archaeological evidence and explores the social roles and meanings of sacrifice in the Mycenaean context and more broadly. It is suggested that, rather than focusing on possible continuities of the practice through to the classical period (an issue which remains ambiguous), sacrifice should be meaningfully discussed within the broader framework of the archaeology of feasting, and more generally food consumption, as a socially important, sensory embodied experience. The evidence from Ayios Konstantinos may reveal a hitherto eluding phenomenon: small-scale, sacrificial-feasting ritual in a religious context, conferring cosmological and ideological powers on few individuals, through the participation in an intense, embodied, transcendental experience.     

北京市老城区菜市场的地方性及其机制研究

地方性研究是人文地理学的重要领域,能够揭示地方的特质特性,从而实现对空间的理解。在后现代思潮影响下,基于地方理论的研究对象开始转向人们日常生活的空间,而质性研究方法尤其适用于这一揭示空间社会意义的研究。本文选取菜市场这一典型城市空间,尝试运用质性方法对其进行地方性的建构并分析其地方性形成机制。研究认为,菜市场的地方性可归为地方空间特性、地方时间特性、地方意义三个方面;地方性的形成机制是地方物质环境、活动者、历史文化和现代性相互作用的过程。研究通过深入理解承载市民生活的空间,希望促进城市空间地方性的传承与发展。     

Presentation is Everything: Foodways, Tablewares, and Colonial Identity at Presidio Los Adaes

Ceramics and zooarchaeological remains are commonly used as indicators of status and wealth at colonial-period sites, yet colonial expectations with regard to cuisine were often difficult to meet within the rigors of frontier life. In this paper, we juxtapose faunal and ceramic assemblages from Presidio Los Adaes and, informed by ethnohistorical and visual data, investigate how social expectations with regard to foodways were negotiated on the Spanish colonial frontier. While ceramic evidence suggests that tableware varied among households, the zooarchaeological assemblage indicates that Los Adaes residents shared the same basic diet.     

社交媒体对广州饮食文化空间的建构与重塑

研究选取国内四大社交媒体——新浪博客、新浪微博、豆瓣网和土豆网作为研究案例,通过文本分析的方法,探讨了社交媒体对广州饮食文化空间的构建与重塑,得出以下结论:①社交媒体构建了广州饮食文化空间的结构以及全球地方特征。社交媒体将广州饮食文化空间结构塑造为承载饮食内容、饮食文化及其相关社会活动的物质和社会文化空间,具有全球化和本地化交融的特征;②基于网民对社交媒体空间的生产,及其之间的社会互动,社交媒体消解了广州饮食文化空间原有的社会文化意义,并将其重塑为一个承载多元社会文化、消费文化、权力和情感的空间,而且这些空间意义具有流动性。研究结论丰富了现有媒体和饮食文化空间地理研究成果,同时为广州饮食文化发展和地方品牌构建提供了参考。     

Eating Barrelled Meat in Upper Canada: Cultural and Archaeological Implications

Much of the meat consumed in nineteenth-century southern Ontario (Upper Canada) came in the form of preserved barreled products. The specific ways of obtaining, preparing and consuming these products resulted in unique regional foodways. Through analyses of historical and archaeological evidence, this paper investigates how barreled meat was packed, shipped and purchased in Upper Canada and discusses the various ways its consumption impacted the lives of its residents and contributed to the formation of local identities. An investigation of butchery marks and body portion distributions lead to a possible method for archaeologically distinguishing between barreled and non-barreled meat assemblages.     

The social role of food in the Natufian cemetery of Raqefet Cave,Mount Carmel,Israel

The archaeology of mortuary practices and related foodways in the Late Natufian (LN; ca. 14,000/13,500–11,700 BP) sheds light on the communal activities of the last hunter–gatherers in the Mediterranean Levant. We present a detailed analysis of the fauna from the LN cemetery of Raqefet Cave (Mount Carmel, Israel). Taphonomic evidence indicates that the animal bones are butchery and consumption leftovers. While the patterns of animal exploitation are reminiscent of Natufian habitation sites, the remains do not reflect the typical recurring post-discard damage resulting from continuous or repeating habitations in those sites. Hence the fauna is interpreted as the leftovers of punctuated, short-term events, rather than ‘ordinary’ Natufian household trash. Taking into account the special depositional context and site characteristics, we interpret the fauna as the intentionally-gathered and buried remains of simple funerary feasts. Elaborate mortuary behavior and symbolic role of food refuse were recently suggested at the contemporaneous cave of Hilazon Tachtit (Israel). The new data from Raqefet Cave probably reflect a somewhat different type of communal meals, adding to the diversity and complexity of pre-agricultural life-ways in the Levant.     

Local Ceramics from the Islamic Trade Center of Harlaa,Eastern Ethiopia: Markers of Chronology and Contacts

Locally made ceramics from Islamic sites in Ethiopia have been neglected in most archaeological studies, which tend to privilege imported Middle Eastern and Chinese/Southeast Asian ceramics. An assemblage of the local ceramics from the important trading site of Harlaa, in eastern Ethiopia (mid-sixth and fifteenth centuries AD), is the subject of this article. The study emphasizes the value of these ceramics as chronological markers, and for understanding regional and long-distance contacts, cultural innovations, processes of Islamization, and foodways.

     

意义、权力与再物质化:食物消费地理新进展

食物是人地关系的天然纽带。自伯克利学派开始关注食品消费研究起,食物研究在国外已属发展较成熟的领域,食物消费研究更是新近地理学关注的热点之一,与家庭研究、性别地理研究关联密切。食物消费主流研究很大部分关涉意义诠释和文化建构,包括文化和身份认同、意义空间塑造、味道与边界、旅游体验、地方指向等命题。食物消费研究也正在经历和吸收一些变化中的研究思潮,特别是警惕过度的"文化转向",重视有关政治地理和再物质化/物质地理的理论主张等。这种研究取向的变化及多元化趋势,作为新文化地理研究的一个缩影,正逐渐对国内食物消费地理研究产生影响。     

‘The Conscience of the Community’: the Au Vaine of Rarotonga

ABSTRACT

The Au Vaine (‘several women’ in Cook Islands Māori), grassroots women’s committees, worked to promote agricultural efforts and food security in Rarotonga during the 1920s and 1930s. A unique organization, the Au Vaine actively encouraged the growing of commercial crops alongside subsistence plantings at a time when women were being pushed towards the home and hearth, and men pulled to wage labour jobs. These women illustrate the powerful and often unheard voices Pacific women retained throughout this period, as well as the critical role of food in Pacific history. In this article I examine the context within which the Au Vaine emerged, discuss what distinguished them from other women’s committees in Polynesia, highlight their purpose and impact on Cook Islands foodways, and explore some of the reasons they declined by the 1940s.     

Clean foods,motherhood and alternative food networks in contemporary Istanbul

Since the early 2000s, the numbers of alternative food networks (AFNs) in Istanbul have increased significantly. Members are usually white collar, university educated, upper middle class Istanbulites who got into the AFNs during their (or their partner’s) pregnancy. Contributing to an ongoing discussion about the exclusionary dynamics within the food movement, in this paper I trace the meanings these affluent mothers attach to “clean and fresh foods” and AFN participation-membership. Using evidence from semi-structured interviews, I argue that they link their identity as food activists and their identity as mothers, and they use motherhood discursively to distinguish themselves from others - particularly lower-class mothers who are not AFN members, and women who are AFN members, but are not mothers. Further reinforcing the socio-economic boundaries and hierarchies within (and beyond) the AFNs, these discourses on motherhood also undermine the expansive potential of the food movement in Turkey.     

Dental disease in the Nile Valley during the New Kingdom

This study examines evidence for dental disease (caries, abscesses, antemortem tooth loss and severity of dental wear) in Nubian and Egyptian groups living in the Nile Valley during the New Kingdom. Specific attention is given to individuals buried at the site of Tombos, a cemetery in Nubia used during the Egyptian colonial occupation. In addition, three Nubian and two Egyptian samples are included for comparative purposes. While some similarities in condition frequencies between Tombos and the comparative groups are apparent, especially in the rates of caries and abscesses, significant differences in antemortem tooth loss and severity of tooth wear point to variation in these Nile Valley samples. These differences are especially evident for males. Higher rates of these conditions at Tombos may be attributed to the socio‐political and cultural changes taking place during this time of colonial occupation. Changes in foodways and occupational environments may have resulted in stress, as demonstrated by these dental conditions experienced by the Tombos people throughout this transitional period. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.